So this itinerary is aimed at *properly* seeing the Dalmatian Coast, rather than *trying* (and failing) to see all of Croatia in 14 days. That said, of course you could spend months exploring the Croatian Dalmatian Coast and still not see it all, but it’s a great amount of time to really start getting under its skin.

Contents

1. Contents
2. Important information about visiting the Dalmatian Coast
   1. When to visit Croatia
   2. Language, Currency & Time Zone
3. The Itinerary
   1. Days 1 – 5: Dubrovnik
      1. Day 1: Arrival, Dubrovnik Old Town
      2. Day 2: Dubrovnik City Walls, Old Town, Mount Srd
      3. Day 3: Fort Lovrijenac, Lokrum Island
      4. Day 4: Trsteno Arboretum
      5. Day 5: Elaphiti Islands
   2. Day 6 – 7: Peljesac Peninsula or Korcula Island
      1. Day 6 & 7: Peljesac Peninsula
      2. Alternate Day 6 & 7: Korcula Island
   3. Day 8 – 10: Hvar Island
   4. Day 11 – 14: Split
      1. Day 11 – 12: Split Old Town, Marjan Hill
      2. Day 13: Klis Fortress
      3. Day 14: Trogir, Departure
4. Getting around the Dalmatian Coast
5. Find out more

Important information about visiting the Dalmatian Coast

When to visit Croatia

Croatia is beautiful to visit all year round with mild weather even during the winter months. That said, a lot is closed during the off season, so for me the best time to visit is either May or September – that way the crowds are thinner, the temperatures are more manageable, and everything is still open.

Language, Currency & Time Zone

• Croatian is the national language, but English is widely spoken, especially in the tourist hot spots.
• The currency changed in Croatia in 2022, and it now uses the Euro. We heard American tourists asking if it took the USD so please know in advance it doesn’t!
• Croatia is 1 hour ahead of the UK, and 6 hours ahead of New York time

The Itinerary

Days 1 – 5: Dubrovnik

Start off your two week jaunt in one of Croatia’s most famous cities. Truly one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited, Dubrovnik is well worth more than just a day. Start off your holiday with a relaxing few days exploring the Old Town.

Day 1: Arrival, Dubrovnik Old Town

Arrive to Dubrovnik and explore a bit of the Old Town and its harbour, enjoying a nice dinner.

Day 2: Dubrovnik City Walls, Old Town, Mount Srd

Walk the city walls, visit the monasteries and their incredible cloisters, hit the museums of the city or shop and enjoy the sunshine, finishing off with a sunset view over the Old Town from Mount Srd.

Day 3: Fort Lovrijenac, Lokrum Island

Climb to Fort Lovrijenac and then spend the rest of your day relaxing on Lokrum Island, home to peacocks, monasteries and lovely rocky beaches.

Day 4: Trsteno Arboretum

After two days in the Old Town, it’s time to escape the city and explore more of the region around Dubrovnik accessible by easy bus or ferry.

First up, it’s a visit Trsteno Gardens, some of the most beautiful gardens in all of Croatia, all looking out over the Adriatic.

Day 5: Elaphiti Islands

Visit the Elaphiti Islands on a cruise, or take the ferry independently. Our favourite was Lopud island for a relaxing day by the beach, or an active day hiking to one of the most stunning points along the entire Dalmatian Coast.

Day 6 – 7: Peljesac Peninsula or Korcula Island

After already spending time along the coast, it’s time to make a choice as to whether you want to see a bit more inland, or visit another beautiful Croatian island.

Day 6 & 7: Peljesac Peninsula

Explore Croatia’s wine region, the Peljesac Peninsula. Tour a few wineries, eat in traditional pubs, and I recommend staying in the beautiful town of Ston, home to Europe’s ‘Great Wall of China’.

Alternate Day 6 & 7: Korcula Island

Relax on Korcula and explore its enchanting old town, beaches and wineries soaking in more of the sea breeze and sunbathing.

Day 8 – 10: Hvar Island

Another of Croatia’s coastal gems is Hvar Island, known as one of the most upmarket islands in the country. There are two main towns on the island. Hvar Town buzzes with billionaire yachts and boats, with parties raving until sunrise. Stari Grad is the opposite, with a quieter and more authentic vibe. Spend a day in each to really soak in the island and what it has to offer.

Day 11 – 14: Split

Transfer from Hvar to Split on Day 11 and then spend your time exploring Split and the surrounding region with your final few days in Croatia.

Day 11 – 12: Split Old Town, Marjan Hill

Spend your time in central Split, exploring the town, visiting Diocletian’s Palace and climbing Marjan Hill. Take it easy and chill in the sunshine with drinks and good food.

Day 13: Klis Fortress

Take a day trip to Klis Fortress to see one of the most impressive fortresses in Croatia. Full of history, it’s great to explore and learn a bit about the story of the area too.

Day 14: Trogir, Departure

Enjoy your final morning in Split with a quick jaunt to Trogir, just outside the centre of Split – before heading home at the end of the day following a wonderful two weeks in Croatia!

Getting around the Dalmatian Coast

There are no trains up and down the Dalmatian Coast.

Driving is easy in the area, however parking is not. Parking in central Dubrovnik is virtually impossible so I don’t recommend hiring a car for this itinerary unless you are staying outside of city centres.

Instead I recommend using buses and ferries which is another reason to visit between May and September, as ferries often don’t run during the off season.

Find out more

If you’d like to see my detailed posts on each location you can do so using the links below:

• Dubrovnik
• Lokrum Island
• Elaphiti Islands
• Trsteno Arboretum
• Peljesac Peninsula
• Split
• Hvar
• Klis Fortress
• Trogir

Did you enjoy the Dalmatian Coast? We had the best time exploring it at a good, but not too quick pace. There is so much to see and do and hundreds of other stop possibilities, but it’s such a beautiful area you can’t go wrong.

Completely separately away from the itinerary, I have had some amazing blogging progress recently. I’m now consistently ranking on google (e.g. Google ‘2 day Hong Kong Itinerary’ and I am the top hit. The top!!). This is happening on multiple of my posts and ranking means I’m now pulling in about 20k unique visitors a month. I’ve completely re-branded my site and am trying to make the most of my high flying as no doubt it will only be temporary. I’m very proud though, and it’s great for this website to move from being a hobby to being a hobby and a genuine product.

Thank you to everyone who reads, likes, comments and follows along on the adventures -I’m so grateful! Stay safe and happy travelling!

Whilst Hvar has become known as more of a party island recently, it’s super easy to take a day trip from Split to Hvar and enjoy the natural beauty of the island without seeing the party side at all….or choose to stay a few nights and enjoy the nightlife.

Contents

1. Contents
2. How to get to Hvar from Split
3. Things to do on Hvar Island
   1. Explore the Old Town
   2. Admire the view from the Spanish Fortress
   3. Enjoy the Bars of Hvar
   4. Take to the Beaches
   5. Head to Hvar’s Monastery
4. Other Croatia Tips

How to get to Hvar from Split

There are two ways to get from Split to Hvar:

• By ferry – take the Ferry over the water using one of the many companies that run shuttles across including The Kapetan Luka Line or the TP Line. Ferries cost around EUR6 and take around 1hr. They run regularly during high season and semi-regularly during low season.
• By organised tour – Lots of tours are offered combining Hvar with snorkelling and other islands. Tours normally cost around EUR100.

We wanted the flexibility to do our own thing in our own time and weren’t bothered about snorkeling or packing in lots of islands, so opted to take the ferry.

Things to do on Hvar Island

Explore the Old Town

This is where you will disembark from the ferry which is very convenient as it’s one of the most beautiful spots on the island. The old stone pastel colours are just so beautiful and I could walk the streets all day long and never get bored of them.

There’s a stunning white stone cathedral, an old Arsenal building housing the first public theatre in Europe which was opened in 1612 and which you can visit, and dozens of beautiful streets to explore.

Admire the view from the Spanish Fortress

As you’re wandering around the lovely streets of Hvar Town, head up towards the Spanish Fortress. From up here you can enjoy an absolutely incredible view our over the island.

Entrance to the fortress is less than EUR5 and it’s so worth it. The fort is very well preserved and you can easily spend about an hour exploring all the rooms and cellars of it, as well as the sweeping views over the harbour of Hvar. If you’re feeling really adventurous you can climb even higher to the Napoleonic Fort!

Enjoy the Bars of Hvar

Hvar has an amazing selection of bars and restaurants to choose from. We loved sitting in the sunshine with cocktails and food watching the world go by.

Take to the Beaches

Hvar undoubtedly has a lot of beaches with swimming points, though the majority of the beaches on the island are pebbled or made up of large rocks with metal ladders installed for getting into and out of the sea. When it comes to sandy beaches Hvar offers only a few on the northern part of the island, where the winds and waves are stronger. Some of the most beautiful beaches on the island include Malo Zarace and Jagodna, and we enjoyed walking around many of the inlets and bays of the island.

Head to Hvar’s Monastery

A short walk from Hvar’s Riva, the Franciscan monastery houses a rich display of museum exhibits including a collection of Greek, Roman and Venetian coins, rare amphora, and an ancient edition of Ptolemy’s Atlas dated from 1524. There’s also an impressive 16th–century painting of The Last Supper. It’s the perfect, quiet place to finish off a day’s visit to Hvar.

Other Croatia Tips

Hvar was one of our favourite stops during our time in Croatia and we enjoyed such a lovely day there. What do you think of it? I hope you enjoyed the virtual visit – and if you want to catch up on any of my Croatia series you might have missed, you can find the posts here:

• Dubrovnik & Dubrovnik Walls Walk
• Trsteno Arboretum
• Lokrum Island
• Elaphiti Islands
• Peljesac Peninsula
• Split
• Trogir
• Klis

Stay safe and happy travelling!

Contents

1. Contents
2. How to get to Klis Fortress
3. History of Klis Fortress
4. What to See & Do at Klis Fortress (incl. Game of Thrones)

How to get to Klis Fortress

There are a number of options for getting to this amazing place.

• By Car – If you have a car rental you can drive from Split to Klis in around 20 minutes
• By Bus – You can take bus #22 (be prepared for a bumpy ride) from the centre of Split directly to the site, taking around 45 minutes and costing around EUR1.50
• By Guided Tour – You could pay for a guided tour from Split (a normal one, or a GoT themed one), although this is much more expensive than the other options. Tours cost roughly EUR25.

We chose to travel by bus and found it to be simple and easy (and much cheaper) to get to Klis that way.

History of Klis Fortress

Klis Fortress was built over 2,000 years ago, originally in the 2nd Century (BC) by the Delmati. Its location is in the perfect defensive position overlooking the coast and inland areas, between the passages of two mountain ranges. In Greek the word Kleis means “the key” and it’s easy to see the reason for the name!

The Fortress began as a small stronghold and then became the Royal Castle to the Croatian Kings (and then later the Hungarian Kings when they took over and let the Knights Templars live in the castle). In the 1200s, the Mongols then attacked the Fortress and eventually in the 1500s, the Ottomans took control of the Fortress as their Empire spread through Europe. It wasn’t until over 100 years later that the Venetians arrived and took over Klis, which they continued until Napoleon came along in 1797, and then the Austrians, before occupation by the Axis Powers in WW2 (Nazi Germany & Fascist Italy). It finally passed back to Croatia after WW2.

The most interesting group of people that the Fort shines a light on are the Uskoks, a group of local fighters who fought with the Ottomans during the 1500s. Such was their life accustomed to sieges and being attacked that children were taught to throw stones from infancy, and a childhood game was catching the Turks. Imagine that level of war in day to day life!

It’s absolutely crazy the change these walls have seen, and standing there looking out to sea, you can’t help but imagine all the thousands of people to do so before at such different points in history. Incredible.

What to See & Do at Klis Fortress (incl. Game of Thrones)

It costs EUR10 to enter the Fortress, and your ticket will also afford you entrance in to the nearby Olive Museum (my Dad was having none of it) and an Interpretation Centre too. We didn’t visit those as we spent around 2.5 hours enjoying Klis Fortress site.

There are a number of things to see inside the Fortress buildings including a timeline video, lots of boards on the history, and even some small art exhibitions. There are a number of towers to climb, as well as St. Vids church.

If you’re in to Game of Thrones, the HBO show was filmed right here at Klis Fortress. It was the site of the fictional city of Meereen that Khaleesi captured in Season 4. They even have a small room dedicated to the Game of Thrones with pictures from the film set. If you weren’t aware, there are many other filming sites from Game of Thrones around Croatia, so if you’re a fan this is the perfect place to visit.

In my opinion, the best thing about the Fortress is the views. It feels like every corner you turn reveals a new gorgeous view of the Dalmatian coast. Directly under the castle is the town of Klis, and its red rooftops enhance the picturesque mountain views. My favorite spot was on top the Prince’s Residence which gave incredible 360 views out across the landscape.

Finally, it’s worth mentioning that there are no shops on site so it’s important to take your own food & drink, though there is a small Café at the entrance.

So, what do you think of Klis Fortress? Would you like to visit? We loved our trip and found Klis to be a welcome escape from the crowds of Split. I hope you enjoyed the tour – stay safe and happy travelling!

Contents

1. Contents
2. Is Trogir worth visiting?
3. How to get to Trogir from Split
4. Things to do in Trogir
   1. Cathedral of St Lawrence
   2. Climb the Bell Tower
   3. Loggia & Clock Tower
   4. Monastery of St. Dominic
   5. Kamerlengo Castle
   6. Waterfront Promenade
   7. St Mark’s Tower

Is Trogir worth visiting?

Trogir’s architecture is just one of the signs that Venice had a hand in shaping its history. Of course the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines were here first, before Venice’s nearly 400 year rule from 1420 to the 1800s, meaning within a compact space is a beautiful collection of Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance architecture all piled together.

That’s what makes Trogir so special. It’s not just a ‘mini Split’ 30 minutes down the road, but is has a lot to offer in its own right and it’s unique. The town is also perfect for people as it’s largely pedestrianised meaning you can escape the cars and hustle of the city all together.

It’s even been listed as the best island city in the world in National Geographic and with such undeniable charm and beauty…..the answer is YES, it’s 100% worth visiting Trogir!

How to get to Trogir from Split

• By bus – You can take the local bus 37 from Split bus station and buy the ticket at the station (costing about EUR2). It takes around 60 minutes as it stops absolutely everywhere possible, and it’s a very bumpy ride! This is the option we took. There is a coach which runs the route too in 20 minutes, though these are less frequent.
• By car – If you hire a car in Split, the drive takes just 30 minutes. There’s plenty of parking and you can simply walk across the bridge to Trogir island.
• Organised Trip – During the summer months you can take a speedboat from Split to Trogir on a day trip. Normally these trips combine other things, such as the Blue Lagoon or other islands, so you normally only get around 1hr in Trogir – which to me isn’t enough for this beautiful place.

Things to do in Trogir

Cathedral of St Lawrence

The terracotta-tipped bell tower of St Lawrence is the first thing you’ll see when Trogir comes in to view and it’s a key reason for Trogir’s UNESCO World Heritage status. It was built in the 12th century on the foundations of a basilica destroyed by the Saracens and today it has ancient with Romanesque elements dating back to the 13th century and gothic details from the 15th century.

Climb the Bell Tower

For an additional smal fee, get a bird’s eye view of Trogir by climbing the Cathedral’s bell tower. This was one of our favourite parts of the day, though it is steep with lots of steps.

Loggia & Clock Tower

Trogir’s Loggia is a historic room held up by five pillars. During the years, it’s acted as a courtroom and meeting place. The characterful clock is a lot of fun and easy to find in the central Market Place. It’s the perfect place to stop for a while on one of the stone benches and take in the incredible beamed ceiling and reliefs carved by 15th century sculptors.

Monastery of St. Dominic

Right on the waterfront, the Monastery is a key spot in Trogir. Built in the 13th Century, it was damaged during WW2 but has since been renovated and preserved. We absolutely loved the cloisters, and the grounds are filled with trees, roses and sculptures making it the perfect place to find some quiet away from the crowds.

Kamerlengo Castle

This perfectly preserved 15th century castle was once a Venetian fortress connected to the city walls (which unfortunately no longer exist). It’s lovely to stroll around and in the summer it acts as a venue for events and concerts.

Waterfront Promenade

The waterfront is yet another beautiful spot on the Dalmatian Coast, providing views out to the sea. Make sure you cross the bridge to get the views back across the Old Town skyline.

St Mark’s Tower

This stone tower was once connected to the castle and the city walls, protecting Trogir from invasion via the strip of water that separates it from the mainland. It offers some nice views from the top.

And that’s a wrap on Trogir. It was such a beautiful little island town and we had the best time exploring. Stay safe and happy travelling everyone!

Split is the second largest city in Croatia after the capital Zagreb, and sits nestled on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea, spread over a central peninsula and its surroundings. The city is bright and lively, with lots going on and plenty keep you busy. It’s easy to spend at least a few days in Split, and doing everything on this list will take around 4-6 days depending on pace.

Diocletian’s Palace

The most famous site in Split, Diocletian’s Palace lies right in the centre of town and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. This ancient palace was built for the Roman Emperor Diocletian in around 4AD. Diocletian was born in Salona which was a large Roman town just to the north of today’s Split, so this was his beautiful home and military garrison on the coast.

It’s important to note it’s not really a palace anymore, instead it’s parts of a palace that once existed – with its walls and structures now embedded within Split’s Old Town.

The site is huge with loads to see, including the famous Peristyle consisting of the Palace’s central courtyard, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, the Temple of Jupiter and the Palace Substructures.

We loved the Palace Substructures in particular as they are one of the best preserved ancient complexes of their kind in the world, being the underground ‘foundations’ of the palace which actually replicate the layout above. We enjoyed imagining the palace alive in its heyday and full of sounds, smells and stories.

Climb Marjan Hill

Marjan Hill provides the best viewpoint out over Old Town Split, and it takes around 2.5hrs to complete the climb from the centre and get back again. The trail is easy to find and takes you through Pine Forest, past the Church of St Nicholas and past a lovely restaurant called Terace Vidilica with views out to the sea. If you allocate a morning or evening to it, it works perfectly to avoid the heat and go at a leisurely pace to enjoy it fully.

Riva Waterfront

Riva Waterfront is the area in Split lined with palm trees separating the Old Town from the sea. It’s lovely to stroll along and admire all the crazy yachts in the harbour, the perfect spot for lunch or a drink.

Old Town Split

Speaking of the Old Town – whilst Diocletian’s Palace is undoubtedly the highlight, the whole Old Town area is beautiful. There are lots of nice streets, hidden courtyards and balconies galore, plus a gorgeous theatre building. There’s also a Game of Thrones Museum and if you’re not in to that – Froggyland – with over 500 stuffed dead frogs on show! The dream.

Split Archaeological Museum

This lovely museum houses artefacts from Diocletian’s Palace and nearby Salona, which was an important Roman city. It’s the oldest museum in Croatia and we really enjoyed a couple of hours exploring.

Take a trip to Trogir

The first stop on the list outside the centre of Split is the beautiful waterfront peninsula of Trogir. A short 30 minute drive or 1hr bus brings you here to stroll the town square, see St Mark’s Tower and the Castle, and climb the Bell Tower of the Cathedral for beautiful views out across the water. We loved the fact that Trogir was a maze of narrow roads, stairways, and arches and easily spent 4hrs exploring.

You can read my post on visiting Trogir HERE.

Explore Klis Fortress

Around a 20 minute drive/40 minute bus ride from Split lies the impressive Klis Fortress. Steeped in history, it looks down across the Dalmatian Coast with some of the most epic views on offer in the region. It was also used as the Game of Thrones filming location for the city of Meereen during Season 4.

You can read my post on visiting Klis HERE.

Speed over to Hvar

Another perfect day trip from Split is to take a 1hr boat trip over to Hvar, one of the most famous Croatian Islands. Hvar is the kind of place that every street you turn down, you have to get your camera out and take photos it’s just SO beautiful. We enjoyed plenty of cocktails in the sunshine with wonderful views and tasty food, plus climbing for the views from the Spanish Fortress is a must.

You can read my guide to Hvar HERE (post coming soon).

We thought Split was beautiful and a great section of our Croatia trip, offering something different to Dubrovnik but both unique in their own ways. What do you think? I still have a lot more of Croatia to show you, but for now stay safe and happy travelling!

How to get to Trsteno Arboretum

If you’re coming from Dubrovnik Old Town, you can reach Trsteno in 3 ways:

• Hire a car and drive – there’s plenty of parking at Trsteno Arboretum and it’ll take you about 30 minutes to drive
• Get a taxi – the most expensive option, costing around EUR45 each way
• Take the bus – this is the option we chose, but unfortunately it’s not totally simple. If you’re in the Old Town you have to take the bus from Pile Gate to the main Dubrovnik Bus Station – this can be done via bus 1A or 1B and takes roughly 15 minutes. From the main bus station you can then take bus 12, 15 or 35 to Trsteno. They don’t run super regularly, so check the timetables in advance. The bus takes around 45 minutes and in total this will cost around EUR10 per person.

Note: If you take the bus, the timetables coming back are hard to decipher because the bus routes show only start and end destination times, not stop times along the way. This is fine on the way as Dubrovnik is the start of the line, but coming back Trsteno isn’t – so be sure to ask at the bus station for return stop times.

About Trsteno Arboretum

The Garden was founded by Ivan Gučetić in 1494, and his descendants maintained the garden throughout the centuries. During the 15-1600s, the owners would pay sailors and others travelling the world to bring back seeds for them to plant in the garden and expand it.

Post WW2 when Croatia became part of Yugoslavia, the land was eventually taken over by the Yugoslav Academy of Sciences & Arts, which turned it into a public arboretum. It’s been open to the public ever since. During the Croatian war of independence from Yugoslavia in 1991-95, the house and gardens suffered severe damage, and then further damage was caused in 2000 when a forest fire swept through the area. Luckily today it’s recovered and is a beautiful place to explore.

The garden has a Renaissance layout, with a set of geometric shapes formed with plants such as lavender, rosemary, fuchsia and bougainvillea, all set around a 14th century stone villa with a cliff-edge pavilion in front of it. In fact, this pavilion and surrounding area was used as the setting for the gardens of The Red Keep in Game of Thrones.

The gardens also house a small chapel, a nice picnic area, and it’s most fancy feature – a beautiful pond overlooked by a statue of Neptune and filled with white waterlilies and dozens of bullfrogs and goldfish. We even saw a terrapin in it. The gardens in totality are only partially landscaped – quite a bit of it is wonderfully wild.

Other things to do in Trsteno

There are a few other things to do in Trsteno besides the Arboretum if you want to make a full day of it.

Firstly, you can’t possibly miss the tree nominated for European Tree of the Year (HA – of course my Mum knew about this!), which sits just outside the Arboretum. It’s over 500 years old and one of the largest of its kind on the continent.

There’s also a lovely little church just across the road which offers yet more wonderful views out to the sea.

However, the best additional thing to do is to walk down to Trsteno beach. It takes around 10-15 minutes from the Arboretum but brings you out at a really quiet rocky beach right on the coastline. There are no food or drink shops, but you can sit or swim in total peace before heading back to Dubrovnik.

And there you have it – a day in Trsteno. What did you think? We loved our day here totally away from the crowds; there’s so much to do in Dubrovnik beyond the Old Town. Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling!

History of the Dubrovnik City Walls

Let’s start with a bit of history. Dubrovnik old town is completely surrounded with defensive walls and forts, and the walls run uninterrupted for 1,940 meters and reach a maximum height of 25 meters. They are undoubtedly Dubrovnik’s most famous feature, and were were initially built when there was a danger of foreign attacks on the Dubrovnik Republic (1300-1800). The current shape dates all the way back to between the fall of Constantinople in 1453 and the 1667 earthquake. Dubrovnik, over time, has been attacked by the Saracens, the Italians, Austrians, Ottomans, and of course Napoleon – as well as being bombed most recently in 1991 by the Yugoslav army.

It’s hard to believe that so much war has besieged this incredible city when you see it today – now a tourist haven with the walls serving a much less sinister purpose. It’s hard to imagine that in most local’s lifetimes they’ve seen it at war, bombed and part destroyed.

Entrance Locations & Price

Today, Dubrovnik is well and truly on the tourist trail. The walls get very, very busy, especially in summer.

The walls open at 08:00-19:30 (June & July), 08:00-18:30 (April, May, August & September), 08:00-17:30 (October) and 08:00-17:30 (November – March). I really recommend getting there for 8am if you can, or at the latest 8.30am because by 9am the cruise ships have descending adding 2,000+ people to the walls (unless of course you visit in winter, but then most of the city has shut down and very few restaurants are open and boat trips don’t run).

There are 3 entrances to the walls:

• Pile Gate – the entrance is situated just to the right of Pile Gate as you look at it from within the Old Town on Stadrun
• St John’s Fortress – the entrance is right next to the Maritime Museum so you can follow it to there
• Ploče Gate – the entrance is just to the left of restaurant 360, to the right of a church

Pile Gate is the main entrance and on our September visit, had queues by 8am. My strong, strong recommendation is to get on at Ploče Gate, which was quiet for us.

The wall goes one way (counterclockwise), and you’ll be turned around if you go the wrong way. You can walk the full wall loop from any of the entrances, but be careful not to accidentally exit as you cannot get back on with the same ticket once you have.

The price of the tickets is the same at each entrance, and they all allow you to complete the walk. You can walk the walls for free if you have the Dubrovnik Pass. At the time of writing this is EUR35 for a day and includes entrance to a small number of other sites too.

Purchasing just wall tickets also costs EUR35 per person (and the price seems to have gone up every year looking at previous pricing!), and a walls ticket also gets you access to Fort Lovrijenac within 48hrs of purchase (whereas the Dubrovnik Pass doesn’t – and costs EUR15 per person to visit in its own right).

In short – if you’re not bothered by Fort Lovrijenac then get the Dubrovnik Pass, and if you are – probably buy the wall tickets.

The Walk

The other benefit of getting on at Ploče Gate is that you will get to walk the best section of the walk first, without the crowds. It’s in this section that you get to look out over the stunning red roofs of the old town, and climb the tallest part of the wall at Minčeta Tower.

After Minčeta Tower the second side of the wall takes you past Pile Gate for some great shots of the Old Town (and be prepared for the crowds to be joining at this point as it’s the main entrance), and then the look out points to Fort Lovrijenac which are truly magical.

The next side of the walls faces out to the sea, with views of Lokrum Island. There’s also a lovely little bar on the route where you can pause for a drink and shade from the heat – although it’s not cheap. This was probably my least favourite section of wall.

The final side of the wall takes you around the harbour, with views out to St John’s Fortress and the boats leaving the bay. It also provides some pretty views out over the many churches of the city.

Other helpful tips

• Walking the full wall loop takes about 1.5-2hrs depending on how many photos you want to take. You can get off at all the entrances as well if you don’t want to walk the full route, but I don’t recommend that unless you absolutely don’t have the time to do it.
• Wear sun-cream and take a hat and water as the walls get VERY hot in the summer (June to September) and there’s little shade on the walk.
• There is no accessible entry to the walls – if you can’t climb stairs, the wall would be virtually impossible to manage. I also don’t think it would be possible to take pushchairs etc up there either.

I hope this guide was helpful for anyone wanting to walk Dubrovnik’s incredible walls. What do you think of them?

If you’re visiting Durbovnik, you may be also interested in:

• Dubrovnik 2 Day Itinerary
• Trsteno Arboreturm
• Elaphiti Islands
• Peljesac Peninsula
• Split and Trogir
• Hvar (post coming soon)

Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling!

Hodilje

We were picked up from outside Old Town Dubrovnik, and driven to our first stop, Hodilje. Here we boarded a little boat and floated out to an oyster farm right there in the sea.

We sat aboard the boat as the owner then opened oysters straight out of the ocean and served them to us with a local wine. A few people chose not to eat the oysters, and I only ate 3 as I don’t love them. The wine was a family recipe and a nice start to a day of drinking.

Milos Winery

The next stop of the day was at Milos, the largest winery in the region. It has just been refurbished with a beautiful new tasting room overlooking the vineyards. We also got to do a tour of the cellars to see the barrels (some very old and some very new), and then sample 4 different wines – a rose, white and two reds.

Bartulovic Winery

From Milos, we drove deeper in to the Peljesac peninsula until we reached a tiny little hamlet. This is home to Bartulovic winery, and is where we also had a traditional lunch. For lunch we were served home made bread, delicious spicy lentil soup, a cheese and meats board, then some fresh linguine and finished off with a cherry cake. This as the best meal I had in Dubrovnik and was absolutely delicious. It was also paired with 4 more glasses of wine, with unlimited top ups. By this point, I was quite drunk.

Please note you can’t just turn up to this winery, and they only serve food for groups, organised in advance.

Ston

Our final stop of the day was the town of Ston, which is most famous for its incredibly city walls – much longer and higher than those of Dubrovnik. Again these were built for defensive purposes in the middle-ages, and are sometimes referred to as Europe’s version of the ‘Great Wall of China’.

Ston is also home to vast salt pans, with the area having the natural resource in abundance (and hence why the walls were built to protect them). Back in the day, salt was one of the most valuable commodities available and in fact many people were paid in salt; it’s the origin of the word sal-ary.

Ston is very pretty to walk around and I would have liked longer in the town. There is a bus direct from Dubrovnik bus terminal which takes 1hr 15 mins if you wanted to just see Ston instead of do this trip.

And that brought an end to our fun day in Croatia’s wine country. I slept very well that night!! I hope you enjoyed following along – stay safe and happy travelling.

We knew we wanted to see the islands, but tours were around EUR50 each and last around 5-8 hours, with really only 1-2hrs max on each island. If you want to see a bit of each then that’s great, but we decided we wanted to see Lopud in depth instead, and we were very glad we did!

How to get to Lopud (or any of the Elaphiti Islands)

• Guided Tour – You can take a guided tour to the islands, though they all visit all 3 islands and snorkel along the way, rather than taking you to one island. This will cost around EUR50 per person. You will have to pay extra for hotel pick up, as most tours leave from Dubrovnik Gruz Port. Please be aware this is NOT walkable from Dubrovnik old town and you have to get a bus/taxi to get there (see info below).
• Take the Ferry – For a steal at EUR8 per person, you can take the Jadrolinija Line ferry. The ferry stops at all 3 islands so you can get off at the one (or two, or three) that you want to see. The Jadrolinija ferries leave from Dubrovnik Gruz Port as well, and you can buy tickets on the day from the ticket office located HERE. It takes around 45 minutes to reach Lopud.

With either option you’re likely going to have to get yourself to Gruz Port. A taxi there from the Old Town will cost you c.EUR12-15.

Alternatively you can take the bus for EUR2.50 per person. You will need to get it from the bus stop outside Pile Gate (in front of the Tourist Information Centre), and take bus 1A or 1B to the Port.

Note: The bus doesn’t tell you what stop you’re at, so you need to get off at Gruz Market. This is the first stop once you’ve gone past the Atlant Centar, and then pulled in to a one way little semi-circle with restaurants on your right hand side and a small park on your left (about HERE). If you miss this stop don’t panic, you can get off at the next one and it’s walkable.

Things to do on Lopud

The Harbour

Lopud has a beautiful harbour front lined with shops, restaurants and a monastery. The monastery has just been turned in to a luxury hotel so you can no longer visit inside, but it’s still nice to view from the harbour front.

Hike to Sutvrac Fort

We decided to enjoy the many hiking trails that Lopud is famous for, and wanted to hike to one of the highest points on the island – the ruin of Sutvrac Fort. You can start the hike from the water front, and just follow the signs up.

The walk takes you up through the steps of the town, in to pine forest, and then to rocky outcrops. The hike to the summit takes around 1-1.5hrs depending on heat and fitness and it’s quite heavy going – I was sweating buckets. But emerging at the top is truly special, a wonderful ‘wow’ moment. The views are just incredible.

The fort itself today is just a ruin, but was once one of the island’s main defenses against the Ottoman Turks and pirates that regularly attacked the area. Lopud was ransacked by the Turks in 1571 with many of its inhabitants carried off into slavery. As the Turkish threat receded so did the care and upkeep of these strongholds, and today its fair to say Lopud is declining in importance with only 200 permanent inhabitants.

Also at the top of the Fort was a little surprise – about 5 or 6 mountain goats using it for shade during the heat. They were our only company up there, other than that we were completely off the tourist trail with no-one around.

Sunj Beach

After visiting the Fort, we headed back to the harbour front. Lopud is also home to a number of absolutely beautiful beaches including Sunj which is famous as it’s one of the area’s few sandy beaches. It’s the perfect place to relax after a hike with some cocktails and views out over the Adriatic.

After a bit of rest and relaxation, we then hopped on the Ferry back to Dubrovnik port, a journey which took us around 1hr.

What did you think of our tour of Lopud? We loved our day out there, though if you’re short on time in Dubrovnik, I wouldn’t recommend prioritising it over time in the Old Town or visiting Lokrum Island. Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling!

Contents

1. Contents
2. How to get to Lokrum Island from Dubrovnik
3. What to see and do on Lokrum Island
   1. Explore the Monastery
   2. Visit the Game of Thrones Museum
   3. Spot the peacocks
   4. Walk around the Botanical Gardens
   5. Climb the Fort
   6. Relax at the beach
   7. Drink cocktails at the beach bars
4. Other helpful information about Lokrum Island

How to get to Lokrum Island from Dubrovnik

You can visit Lokrum Island on an organised trip from Dubrovnik either via ferry or by sea kayak, costing around EUR35-45 depending on option. This normally leaves an hour or so maximum on the island itself.

Much more flexible is to take the Lokrum Island ferry independently for EUR27 per person, including entry to the island nature reserve. The ferries leave from the Old Port in Dubrovnik roughly every half an hour – the first ferry is at 9am, and the last ferry back is at 7pm during the season. From December to March the ferry doesn’t run and a visit to Lokrum is not possible.

You don’t need to buy ferry tickets in advance, and can turn up at the kiosk in the Port (opposite Poklisar restaurant, and marked on Google Maps as ‘Lokrum Island Tour’).

The ferry takes around 10 minutes to reach Lokrum island, and drops you off at Portoc on the east side of the island.

What to see and do on Lokrum Island

There is so much to see on Lokrum island, and there’s something of interest for everyone.

Explore the Monastery

The Monastery complex consists of the remnants of the basilica (12th/13th century), a monastery with a cloister garden (15th/16th century) and the summer residence of Maximilian of Habsburg with gardens and parks, built in the 1800s. Maximilian was an Austrian archduke (and bizarrely also the short-lived Emperor of Mexico) and he chose Lokrum as his summer island.

Visit the Game of Thrones Museum

Lokrum was used as one of the filming locations for Game of Thrones, and doubled as the city of Qarth during the series. Now there’s a small museum about Lokrum and its role in GoT which you can visit – plus there’s a replica iron throne to sit on should you wish.

Spot the peacocks

Maximilian introduced peacocks to the island from the Canary Islands, and my goodness are there hundreds. We saw at least a few dozen and the highlight was them even joining us at a table for a shared lunch (spot the peacock in between my mum and dad!)

Walk around the Botanical Gardens

Another of Maximilian’s introductions to the island is a botanical garden. Whilst not full of lush and colourful plants, it’s nice to stroll around and the cactus collection was quite something!

Climb the Fort

In the middle of the island is Fort Royal, built on the highest peak of Lokrum. It was initiated by the French army after the occupation of Dubrovnik in 1806, and completed during the Austrian administration around 1835. Today it provides amazing views out across the water and back to Dubrovnik old town so is well worth the climb.

Relax at the beach

Lokrum, and Dubrovnik more broadly, doesn’t have sandy beaches. Largely the beaches are jagged rocks with metal steps down in to the crystal clear water. That said, they are truly stunning and Lokrum offers a number of points around its coastline where you can lay out a towel on the rocks and enjoy some sun.

Drink cocktails at the beach bars

Lokrum also has quite a few little bars tucked away near sunbathing areas which serve food and drinks. I loved that they were almost Caribbean style with beach vibes and extensive cocktail menus. Perfect to sit and enjoy some shade out of the heat before heading back to the mainland.

Other helpful information about Lokrum Island

• If you want to see everything on the island, allocate at least 4-5 hours for your trip. We got the 9am ferry there, and 2.45pm ferry back.
• If you want to sunbathe, relax in the beach bars etc – take a book and spend the day on Lokrum, it’s much nicer/quieter than the beaches in Dubrovnik old town
• Take suncream, a sunhat and sensible shoes as the terrain can get quite rugged
• Don’t feed the peacocks!

Did you enjoy the trip to Lokrum Island? It was such a wonderful day out rom Dubrovnik and highly recommend it if you have the time. Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe and happy travelling!

I totally fell in love with Dubrovnik. Its old town, a maze of steps and alleys in beautiful stone, is truly magical. Its many churches and monasteries, with pretty cloisters, offer sanctuary from the crowds and heat of the day. The water, constantly lapping the rocky coastline as a background sound against the hubbub, is crystal clear. It is utterly beautiful, and it’s the perfect European city break if you’re after sun, sea, history and views.

There’s no getting away from the fact that Dubrovnik is busy, but with patience and two days (and two early mornings) you can definitely make the most of what this city has to offer. If you have longer, the end of this article also includes a number of recommendations for extensions.

Contents

1. Contents
2. Itinerary Day 1: Within the Old Town Walls & Mount Srd
   1. Walk the City Walls
   2. Ploce Gate & Surrounding Streets
   3. The Dominican Monastery
   4. Sponza Palace, Clock Tower & St Blaise’s Church
   5. Rector’s Palace & Cathedral
   6. Stadrun & Franciscan Monastery
   7. Explore Dubrovnik’s Side Streets
   8. Cable Car to Mount Srd for Sunset
   9. Homeland War Museum
3. Itinerary Day 2: Fort Lovrijenac & Lokrum Island
   1. Fort Lovrijenac
   2. Dubrovnik Harbour
   3. Lokrum Island
4. Have a Little Longer?

Itinerary Day 1: Within the Old Town Walls & Mount Srd

Walk the City Walls

Start the day at Dubrovnik’s most famous attraction before it gets busy. The views across the city and out to the sea are truly spectacular and the full loop is special first thing in the morning. Gates open at 8am, and enter via the Ploce Gate entrance for the least crowded start point.

Full Guide: Post HERE.

Time required: 1.5-2hrs

Price: EUR35/Free with the Dubrovnik Pass

Ploce Gate & Surrounding Streets

One of the main entrances to the city, Ploce Gate provides some special views over the harbour and it’s fun walking over the drawbridge through the ancient entrance way. The streets leading down from Ploce are also some of the most beautiful in the city – especially if you can get them empty as I managed to.

Time required: 15 mins

Price: Free

The Dominican Monastery

One of the most peaceful spots in the city, and perfect for escaping the tourist bustle – head in to the Dominican Monastery near to Ploce Gate and soak in the beautiful cloisters. There’s also a small museum which had some nice artefacts in, and we had it virtually to ourselves.

Time required: 30mins

Price: EUR3

Sponza Palace, Clock Tower & St Blaise’s Church

Walking in to the Old Town, you’ll enter a square housing St Blaise’s Church, Sponza Palace and the iconic clock tower. Perfect for a few photos, the floor is like marble with the stones being constantly smoothed by the daily footfall. There are also lots of bars and restaurants if you want to stop for a drink or food.

Time required: 15 mins

Price: Free (entry to Sponza Palace at certain points can cost EUR3.50)

Rector’s Palace & Cathedral

Just up the road is the incredible Rector’s Palace, home to a really interesting museum on the history of Dubrovnik, including its role as a republic, independence and the 1991 war. The building itself is also super special with a stunning courtyard perfect for a coffee – and again once inside it wasn’t too busy at all.

Afterwards cross the road to the Cathedral, which had to be rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake (though previous cathedrals have existed here in the 7th, 10th and 11th century). The money to build the basilica was partially contributed by the English king Richard the Lion Heart, as a votive for having survived a shipwreck near the island of Lokrum in 1192 on his return from the Third Crusade.

Time required: 1.5hrs

Price: EUR17/Free with the Dubrovnik Pass (Rector’s Palace), Free (Cathedral)

Stadrun & Franciscan Monastery

Head down the main street in Dubrovnik, Stadrun, towards the Franciscan Monastery. There are lots of shops to browse along the way and I highly recommend getting some of the delicious ice-cream from aRoma Gelato – delicious.

Once at the Franciscan Monastery, it’s time to find another safe haven away from the bustling crowds. The monastery is beautiful, and its famous for its Franciscan Pharmacy, one of the oldest in Europe. We also found it interesting that the walls of the Monastery still bear the scars of the 1991 war, with missile holes marked.

Time required: 1hr

Price: EUR5/Free with the Dubrovnik Pass

Explore Dubrovnik’s Side Streets

One of the best things to do in Dubrovnik Old Town is to wander off down the streets. There are so many picturesque streets with churches at the end, or steep steps, or even holes in the walls leading to bars looking out at the sea (Buza Bar). We happily spent an hour or so just wandering in the evening once the cruise ship crowds have all left.

Time required: 1hr

Price: Free

Cable Car to Mount Srd for Sunset

Walking back out of the Old Town City via Ploce Gate, head to the Dubrovnik cable car to take a ride up to the viewing platform. The best time of day to visit is sunset to capture the incredible views. You can’t see the sunset from the viewing platform and have to walk down to the car park and round past the war museum to the rocky outcrop to be able to see it. We sat down with a picnic to take in the views.

Time required: 1.5hrs

Price: EUR27

Homeland War Museum

Also at the top of the mountain is the Homeland War Museum, which is open until 10pm each day. After watching the sunset, head in to the museum to learn all about the 1991 war as Croatia left the former Yugoslavia. Seeing the photos of the ancient town walls being bombed and the loss of life was really impactful and really worth learning about.

Time required: 1-2hrs

Price: EUR5

Itinerary Day 2: Fort Lovrijenac & Lokrum Island

Fort Lovrijenac

Fort Lovrijenac is classed as part of the city walls, though it is across the bay. It dates back to 1038 and was a vital strategic fortress to protect Dubrovnik from the Venetians during the 11th century. During the summer the Fortress also hosts plays so if you’d like to see Hamlet in an incredible location you can!

Time required: 1hr

Price: EUR15/Free with the Walls ticket from yesterday (if you paid EUR35 and didn’t use the Dubrovnik Pass)

Dubrovnik Harbour

Walking back through the old town and in to the harbour provides a perfect spot for a drink looking out at the moored boats. There are also some nice restaurants here, and some tasty ice cream stands.

Time required: 30mins

Price: Free

Lokrum Island

From the right side of the harbour, you can buy your tickets to visit Lokrum Island. Lokrum is about 15 minutes off the mainland, and designated as a nature reserve. It’s home to a monastery, LOTS of peacocks, a botanical garden, a fort with lovely views and lots of walking trails and swimming spots. There are also a number of nice bars and restaurants for lunch/dinner/cocktails and it makes for the perfect escape from the bustling city. Finish off your time in Dubrovnik relaxing here before heading back to the mainland.

Full Guide: Post HERE

Time required: Half a day

Price: EUR27

Have a Little Longer?

A few hours:

• Walk the outside of the city walls
• Explore more of the side streets and squares throughout the old town
• Visit the Maritime Museum

A day:

• Trsteno Arboretum
• Pelješac Peninsula
• Lopud (Elaphiti Islands)

Time for another location:

• Split, Trogir and Klis (posts coming soon)
• Hvar (post coming soon)

So what do you think of Dubrovnik? I think this was one of my favourite posts ever to write ever as I loved everything about the city. I hope this itinerary is helpful if you’re planning some time in the city – let me know in the comments below! Stay safe and happy travelling!