How to get to Cēsis

We chose to drive from Riga to Cēsis , which took us 1hr 15 minutes. Alternatively, you could get the train directly in just over 2 hours.

On our way, we actually witnessed a car crash where a car on the opposite side of the road just veered off and smashed head on in to the car in front of us. Luckily we were able to stop in time, and no-one involved in the crash was seriously hurt. But it meant we arrived at Cēsis a little shaken with our near miss. So maybe get the train!

Cēsis Castle

The main draw of a visit to Cēsis is its castle. The castle is one of the most iconic and best preserved medieval castles in Latvia, being founded over 800 years ago by the German Crusaders, known as the Livonian Order. They spread Christianity across Europe, and had a stronghold in Latvia.  Up until 1577, the castle was prosperous but then came a terrible event in Latvian history.

In 1577, 300 people within the castle committed mass suicide by blowing themselves up with gunpowder. They did this to avoid being captured and tortured by Ivan the Terrible (the Russian Tsar who was known for his cruelty).

Cēsis Castle was still in use during the following century but it fell into disuse after the Great Northern War in the 1700s between Russia and Sweden (you can read my post HERE about the constant invasions and occupations of the Baltic lands).

Today the castle is one of the ‘must see’ destinations in the Baltic States and has been beautifully preserved. We particularly liked that on arrival you’re given a lantern as some of the stairs are so dark you can’t see up them – it made it feel quite authentic and beautiful. English health and safety wouldn’t be happy mind you!

You can also climb up the main tower for some beautiful views out over the castle and wider Cēsis.

Other things to do in Cēsis

Cēsis is a small town, but there are some other interesting things to do besides the castle. Opposite the castle is a nice park, May Park, which is lovely to stroll around. There is also a nice medieval town with a centre around Rozu Square, and a war memorial for those fallen during the battle for independence in 1918-1920.

There is also an interesting museum called Burning Conscience, which is about local resistance to Soviet brutality, occupation and oppression during the years Latvia belonged to the USSR (1940-1991), adding to a full day exploring this wonderful little town.

What do you think of Cēsis? We found it to be a lovely choice of day trip from Riga and would recommend it if you have some extra time to spare in Latvia. Stay safe and happy travelling!

Contents

1. Contents
2. Riga Itinerary Day 1
   1. Town Hall Square, Blackheads House and Christmas tree plaque
   2. St Peter’s Church & Tower
   3. Popular Front Museum
   4. Livu Laukums Square
   5. Powder Tower (Latvian War Museum)
   6. Evening old town stroll
   7. Dinner at Domini Canes
3. Riga Itinerary Day 2
   1. Riga Cathedral & Dome Square
   2. Riga History & Navigation Museum
   3. Three Brothers & Swedish Gate
   4. Bastion Park & Opera House
   5. River Cruise
   6. Freedom Monument
   7. Corner House Museum
   8. Art Noveau Walk

Riga Itinerary Day 1

Town Hall Square, Blackheads House and Christmas tree plaque

Start your trip off with a coffee or breakfast in the beautiful Town Hall Square area of the city. There are lots of really nice eateries to choose from surrounded by picture perfect rows of houses.

Then head round the corner to the House of the Blackheads – the original building was erected during the first third of the 14th century for the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners in Riga.

Also make sure you find the little Christmas tree nearby – this marks the spot where the very first public Christmas tree was placed in 1510!

St Peter’s Church & Tower

Next it’s time to head up to the best view in the city – from St Peter’s Church Tower. The church itself is nice to have a walk around, and then head skywards for some beautiful panoramas.

Popular Front Museum

If you’re interested in learning more about Latvia’s journey to independence in 1991 then this museum charts the Latvian Popular Front’s (political party) rise to power and independence from the USSR. It’s super interesting and we spent over an hour there. Especially interesting is the part of the exhibition on the Baltic Way – a line of over 2,000 people holding hands all the way from Tallinn to Vilnius in a peaceful demonstration for independence.

Livu Laukums Square

Another beautiful square and perfect as your stop for lunch, enjoy people watching and music playing as you sit in one of the restaurants and watch the world go by for an hour or so.

Powder Tower (Latvian War Museum)

The next stop of the day is just a few minutes walk away – the Latvian War Museum, also known as the Powder Tower. Here you will find exhibits on Latvian history from the 1200s to the present day. It’s particularly famous for its WW1 exhibit, which has won awards internationally – and you can easily spend an hour just in that exhibit. There are also galleries on the Crusader wars, WW2 and modern day conflicts where Latvians have fought for NATO – including in Iraq and Afghanistan.

Evening old town stroll

One of the nicest things to do in an evening is to stroll the cobbled streets of the old town and just get lost to enjoy what you find. We easily meandered round with no purpose but to spot pretty buildings for 30 minutes.

Dinner at Domini Canes

One of the best places to eat in town is Domini Canes. We had an incredible meal in there, but be sure to book in advance as even on a Tuesday night there were no walk-in tables available.

Riga Itinerary Day 2

Riga Cathedral & Dome Square

Like yesterday, start your day off in a beautiful and picturesque square. Then head in to the incredible cathedral, being sure to check out the Cloisters and the world famous organ.

Riga History & Navigation Museum

The Riga History & Navigation Museum makes a good stop for an hour or so to learn more about the history of the city. The boards are all in Latvian, so you will need the English guides, but they are worth spending time reading whilst looking at the exhibits.

Three Brothers & Swedish Gate

The Three Brothers is a building complex consisting of three houses which form the oldest complex of dwelling houses in Riga. Each house represents various periods of development and they are just absolutely beautiful.

Just down the road is The Swedish Gate, which was erected 1698 as a part of the Riga Wall to provide access to barracks outside the city wall. 

Bastion Park & Opera House

Meandering along the canals of Riga is a lovely way to spend a bit of time. We visited just as the sun popped out and the park area was stunning with lots of flowers blooming and the light coming through the trees. You can also get an icecream here, hire a boat or join a canal tour – perfect.

River Cruise

Within the park, there are a number of canal boat stations, where you can hop on a boat and relax on a river cruise along the Daugava River, taking in the various bridges, islands and landmarks along the way. Don’t miss the Riga TV Tower and the modern Library.

Freedom Monument

The Latvian Freedom Monument honours soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence which happened between 1918 and 1920. During the Soviet times it lost significance but is now a site of national importance.

Corner House Museum

Next it’s time to head slightly out of the centre to the Corner House Museum, the ex-KGB building in the city during the Soviet era. Here you can read about the shocking acts during the period Latvia belonged to the USSR, including forced migrations to Siberia, torture and espionage.

Art Noveau Walk

As you walk back from The Corner House, head to Albert Iela, the heart of the Art Noveau district in Riga. The buildings are absolutely gorgeous and make the perfect way to spend your final evening in this incredible city. Make sure you buzz in to the Art Noveau museum even if just to see the staircase – it’s perfect.

What do you think of Riga? We were really taken with the city and definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a good value city break. Thanks for reading – and as always, stay safe and happy travelling!

Where are The Baltics?

The Baltics is an area of Europe covering three separate countries – Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. They sit on the north coast of Europe, with Russia and Belarus bordering them to the North, East and South.

The route we followed on our trip took us through all 3 countries as per the map above. At the very bottom of the map you can see Kaliningrad – this is a small area of Russia below Lithuania. Then to the right you will see St Petersburg, also in Russia, with Belarus the country sharing a border with Lithuania and Latvia.

All three Baltic states are in NATO, but all three have long and complicated histories with Russia which can’t be ignored. But let’s start with the non-war related observations.

What are The Baltics like to visit?

In short, INCREDIBLE. I had an amazing time exploring the region. There were areas that felt very much on the tourist trail, and others which felt a world away from it. It was a place of similarities – to Western Europe, to each other – and a place of huge differences. It was one of the best holidays I’ve ever had, and I’d recommend it to anyone considering a trip here.

Here are my non-war and non-political related observations.

1. Each Baltic capital feels very different

Vilnius (Lithuania) felt completely off the tourist track – we heard mainly Lithuanian and were not aware of many English visitors. In Riga (Latvia), it was overwhelmingly German visitors we saw. We also saw and heard many more Russians in Latvia. In Tallinn (Estonia), it seemed largely English and felt much more Western European – firmly on the tourist trail. However, all 3 Baltic countries speak AMAZING English, so it was easy to communicate.

Away from the capital cities of Riga and Tallinn, Latvia and Estonia also felt off the tourist trail and I really enjoyed seeing more of these beautiful countries.

2. In Lithuania, people are not openly friendly

…but that doesn’t mean they’re not nice. People don’t say hello or smile in the street. There’s not really any customer service, it’s more nods and grunts if anything. People looked away if I made eye contact and smiled. It’s cultural and not at all meant to be rude. It was slightly different in Latvia and Estonia but still don’t expect enthusiastic greetings and well wishes, especially outside of the capital cities.

3. Traditional food is meat heavy

Most menus are meat heavy across the region – there are lots of vegan and vegetarian places now popping up, but traditional food is game meat and rye bread. We sampled it across the region and it was VERY heavy, but great quality.

4. The streets are clean and beautiful

All three Baltic nations are completely spotless – like not even gum on the pavements. I saw someone throw a receipt on the pavement, and 2 locals told him off! We also ‘jay walked’ (crossed the road on a red light as there were no cars) and people told us off and looked at us with complete disdain.

5. All three Baltic countries feel super safe

Not once did I feel threatened, in danger or even looked at funny. In fact the opposite; literally no-one bothered me at all.

6. The Baltic States are largely white

I didn’t see a non-white person for my entire time in Lithuania, and in Latvia and Estonia it was rare. In total in 2 weeks I think I saw 5 black people, most of whom were American tourists. I found it uncomfortable, and if I wasn’t white I think my experience in these countries could have been different (but obviously I can’t attest to that, and certainly wasn’t aware of anything but open minds and people being welcome to all visitors).

7. Travelling around is easy

Whilst there is no train network easily connecting the countries, the roads are good and easy to navigate. Within countries (i.e. Vilnius to Kaunas, Tartu to Tallinn), the trains were incredible. Very cheap, efficient, clean and with snacks offered too.

8. It’s cheaper than Western Europe, but not that cheap

We noticed a big difference in accommodation, transport and museum prices across the region vs in the UK. However food and drink was roughly the same. In the capital cities the price differential wasn’t that big, especially in Tallinn which we found to be the most touristy area. All 3 countries use the Euro.

How is the Russia/Ukraine war impacting the Baltics?

Let’s talk about the main thing affecting this area at the time of my visit. The Baltics are completely surrounded by Russia and in the living memory of most of the people here are previous occupations, oppression and mass killings of friends and family by the same country. Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia all only gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. The war in Ukraine is a huge focus here, with the Baltics a likely target if Russia decide to go further. This is not a new threat to the region and we can’t understand how these countries feel today without looking at the past.

Since the 1200s there hasn’t been longer than 50 years without an invasion or occupation by Russia in this region. In every single family, in every generation since the 1200s, Russian aggression is in the consciousness. 2024 is no different, meaning the threat today is history repeating itself. Yet again, as it has for the last 800+ years already.

As we travelled through the region we learnt in detail about the history.

1200s – 1918 (end of WW1)

Lithuania was formed in the late 1200s as The Grand Duchy of Lithuania and was independent/allied with Poland until 1795. During that time it fought many battles against Russian invaders. Eventually the Duchy fell and from 1795-1918, Lithuania was part of the Russian Empire right up until the end of WW1.

Latvia & Estonia didn’t have a national border or identity as countries until the end of WW1. Unlike Lithuania they formed the Kingdom of Livonia in the 1200s, which effectively meant they were ruled by the German Crusaders and power was in the hands of the Germans (hence the German links everywhere in Riga/Tallinn). Then as the Reformation swept through Europe, the Catholic Livonian Empire lost its sway and Latvia/Estonia became a battle ground for everyone – The Danish came, the Swedes were in charge for a while, the Russians continued to attack. And then, like in Lithuania, they took over for good in the 1800s, with the area becoming part of the Russian Empire until 1918.

In 1914-1918, Russia fought in WW1 and lost. After WW1, with Russia weakened, all 3 Baltic nations claimed independence following 2 years of battles. This was the first time Latvia and Estonia became recognised as countries.

1920 – today

Independence didn’t last long. Just over 20 years later, in 1940, with WW2 raging in other countries, Russia took over the Baltics yet again. By 1941, Germany had invaded and the area was under Nazi control, and then in 1944 the Russians were back and Lithuania, Estonia and Latvia were incorporated in to the Soviet Union (USSR), right up until 1991.

It was during this period that some of the biggest atrocities happened – Estonia lost 25% of its population, for example. This was because thousands of people were forcibly sent to labour camps, killed by the Soviet forces, or sent to live in exile in Siberia for no reason (just being a teacher, or politician or farmer was enough). Virtually no families were left untouched, and the USSR economically and financially destroyed the Baltics for its own growth back ‘home’.

In the 1980s, the USSR was weakened following years of terrible economic policies, and there was rising unrest in The Baltics with calls for independence alongside the USSR’s new policy where restrictions were not as severe as they had been in the past.

Through peaceful protest, independence was restored for all 3 nations in 1991. One of the main symbols of independence was the Baltic Way – where people from all 3 countries joined hands all the way from Vilnius to Tallinn to peacefully protest for independence.

No wonder protests against the Ukraine war are strong across this region. The prospect of Russian invasion is real, every day here. In Lithuania, support for Ukraine was overwhelming – every shop we walked past was decked out in the Ukrainian colours, we saw demonstrations and concerts and public speeches on the topic of the war. Lithuania has a much lower population of Russians (5%) than Latvia and Estonia (25%), and it felt the most vocal against the war by far.

In Latvia and Estonia, the open support wasn’t everywhere like in Lithuania, but there were pockets of really strong protest. We spoke to a number of people in all 3 countries and all were vocally against the war, and fearful of Russia coming back to occupy the Baltics. Everyone we spoke to said it was now dangerous to support the war or be pro-Russian.

In Western Europe we are slightly removed, in other continents even more so. But to these people here, they have lost loved ones in previous conflict with Russia, they have a national consciousness in living memory of oppression through occupation and there is fear here. There is an active motion here to align as much as possible with Western Europe – English is the second language not Russian and there was definitely an anti-Russian feeling in areas of the region, especially in Lithuania where Russian guides had even been removed from museums for example.

I pray history doesn’t repeat itself in The Baltics, lord knows these people have endured enough already.

As I said, over the coming weeks and months I will publish multiple guides to places across the Baltics, but I wanted to start with the context as I think it’s far too important to ignore it. What do you think? Thanks for reading, stay safe and happy travelling.