Back in May last year, I spent a number of days exploring the Swiss side of this wondrous place and here’s a (hopefully) helpful guide to exploring the area.

Contents

1. Contents
2. Important Information
   1. Language, Currency and Time Zone
   2. Best time to visit & length of stay needed
   3. Getting around Lake Geneva
   4. Cost
3. Things to do on Lake Geneva
   1. Region 1: Geneva & Surrounds
      1. Central Geneva
      2. Tour the United Nations
      3. Get out on the Lake
      4. Nyon and Château de Prangins
   2. Region 2: Lausanne & Surrounds
      1. Lausanne Old Town
      2. Olympic Museum
      3. Ouchy Waterfront
      4. Lavaux Vineyards (Grandvaux & Lutry)
   3. Region 3: Montreaux & Surrounds
      1. Château de Chillon
      2. Rochers de Naye
      3. MOB Golden Pass scenic railway
4. More Information

Important Information

Language, Currency and Time Zone

• This area of Switzerland sits in the French Canton of Vaud, meaning French is the primary language here. In fact, if you want to fit in locally – you should really call it Lac Leman not Lake Geneva.
• German and English are also widely spoken.
• The currency in Switzerland is the Swiss Franc (CHF), and European debit/credit cards are widely accepted.
• Time Zone is GMT +1hr

Best time to visit & length of stay needed

July and August offer the warmest temperatures, but also the biggest crowds. Shoulder season across May, June, September and October offer mild weather and less people.

You’ll need at least 5 days to cover everything in this guide. If you also want to explore the French side of the lake, then I’d recommend 8-10 days depending on your pace (I only visited the Swiss half).

Getting around Lake Geneva

Trains are the easiest way to go, with one side of the lake to the other taking around an hour on the train. Trains stop at all major spots along the lake front and buying tickets online or at the station is easy. Boats are also a great and more leisurely way to travel, with multiple routes across the lake. Be sure to look in to the Swiss Travel Pass if you’re travelling round a lot – all train and boat travel is included.

Cost

£££. Hotels are an average of £250/night, and average meal costs in restaurants are £40pp. It’s not cheap having a long break here.

Things to do on Lake Geneva

The Swiss side of the lake is around 100km long, taking c1.5-2hrs to drive. Along this route, there are numerous areas around Lake Geneva offering lots of things to do making it the perfect road/train trip.

Region 1: Geneva & Surrounds

Central Geneva

Geneva is a beautiful city with so much to offer. Be sure to explore the old town and climb the cathedral tower for incredible views, as well as pay homage to the famous flower clock and enjoy lakeside walks.

Tour the United Nations

You can’t come to Geneva and not visit the UN Building, one of the city’s most famous links. There are a number of tours to learn more about the entity’s history and work, and as a bonus the Red Cross Museum is just up the road so the two are perfect to combine.

Get out on the Lake

Lake Geneva is best experienced by boat. CGN run numerous cruises across the lake (whether as a hop on/hop off to other stops, or for a lunch/dinner cruise, or for sunset drinks – you can’t go wrong!), and you can also hire boats and kayaks as well. It’s just so beautiful everywhere you look!

Nyon and Château de Prangins

A short 10 minute train ride from Geneva lies beautiful Nyon, home to the wonderful Château de Prangins which houses the Swiss National Museum, as well as a pretty old town and some ancient Roman ruins.

Region 2: Lausanne & Surrounds

Lausanne Old Town

Lausanne is a gorgeous town lying right on the banks of the lake. Its old town is like something out of a fairytale, with its cobbled streets, wonky walkways and picturesque buildings. Also make sure you have a famous hot chocolate at La Barbare, and pop in to the Lausanne History Museum.

Olympic Museum

Lausanne is the home of the Olympics and no visit would be complete without at least a quick visit to this wonderful museum. I spent hours and hours in here, but then I am an Olympics nut. Please also excuse all photos of me from this trip – my luggage was lost so it’s sunglasses from one of those street stands, and a mishmash of clothes I could find that didn’t bankrupt me (my t-shirt says I Switzerland on it underneath – ha)!

Ouchy Waterfront

Ouchy is the area of south Lausanne which directly faces on to the lake. With pretty lakeside parks, lots of options for boat trips and restaurants galore, it’s a beautiful place to spend half a day.

Lavaux Vineyards (Grandvaux & Lutry)

Just outside of Lausanne is the most famous wine region in Switzerland – Grandvaux. We chose to walk among the vineyards from there to Lutry which took a couple of hours, and finish our day off with wine tasting at one of the many wineries in the area. It was my second favourite part of the trip.

Region 3: Montreaux & Surrounds

Château de Chillon

Wow. One of the most beautiful castles I’ve ever visited in my life, Chillon lies nestled right on the lake edge with the mountains of the Alps forming its dramatic backdrop.

Rochers de Naye

Hikes don’t get much more beautiful than this – and you can’t come to Switzerland and not go hiking. Rochers de Naye gives epic views out over the Alps and Lake Geneva. It takes 7 hours to hike from Montreux, or you can get the train up to a number of stations on the way to cut the walk. We hiked the final 2 hours to the top, and it tops my list of experiences around Lake Geneva.

MOB Golden Pass scenic railway

Montreux is home to the MOB Golden Pass scenic railway. Riding a panoramic train is a must do if you’re in Lake Geneva, and there’s a few different options to either do as a daytrip in itself, or as a means of getting to your next stop in Switzerland.

More Information

You can read my detailed posts from around Lake Geneva covering all the items above here:

• Geneva
• Nyon
• Lausanne & Lavaux
• Chillon Castle
• Panoramic Train

So what do you think of Lake Geneva? Would you want to visit one day? We had an incredible time in this picturesque little corner of the world and would recommend it to anyone looking for a getaway with lots of variety in things to do (as long as you’re not travelling on a tight budget). Hope you enjoyed the tour – stay safe and happy travelling!

Liechtenstein is located between Austria and Switzerland, and its national language is German so I was right at home (though the accent was thick – I suppose the English equivalent of Scouse or something). It is one of only two double-landlocked countries in the world (in case you don’t know, a double-landlocked country is a country that borders only landlocked countries), and fun fact: one man is worth 50% of the entire country’s GDP. I couldn’t wait to visit!

Contents

1. Contents
2. How to get to Liechtenstein from Zürich
3. What to see and do in Liechtenstein
   1. Hike the Wanderweg
   2. Visit the Castle
   3. Enjoy the National Museum
   4. Get your passport stamped
   5. Stroll the old town

How to get to Liechtenstein from Zürich

Liechtenstein has no airport, so you have to access it from another European country. Switzerland is the easiest option so once I knew we we were going, we had to get a visit in to the itinerary.

The closest major city in Switzerland from which to visit is Zürich. From Zürich there are two ways to get to Liechtenstein’s capital city, Vaduz:

• By Car/Taxi – A 1hr15 minute drive to Vaduz. A taxi will cost you around £400 each way, and car hire is around £80/day plus petrol.
• By train/Bus – A 1hr train from Zürich to Sargans, and then a 30 minute bus from Sargans to Vaduz. This route is free with the Swiss Travel Pass, or will cost you around £20 per person.

We went by train/bus as we had the Swiss Travel Pass and it was super easy. The bus drops you in central Vaduz and we spent our day exploring Liechtenstein’s tiny capital city.

What to see and do in Liechtenstein

We spent our day in Vaduz and found a variety of interesting things to do.

Hike the Wanderweg

The walking trails around Vaduz are just stunning. We chose to do a walk from Gaflei down to the centre of Vaduz, along the Wanderweg. We managed to get beautiful views out over the mountains, although as normal I got sunburnt and my husband got such bad hay-fever the inhaler was out again.

Visit the Castle

Hilarious. We trekked all the way up to see the castle in Vaduz and well…the pictures speak for themselves. You can’t go in the castle either as it’s still lived in by the Royal Family here so is a private home! I found it interesting to learn that Liechtenstein has had a Monarchy since the 1500s, and no dramas over lines of succession which is odd in Europe. The family tree is a little close (with cousins marrying cousins at points), and no longer on a direct line as some Monarchs didn’t have children – but instead willingly passed the throne to nephews etc. Very civilised.

Enjoy the National Museum

I really enjoyed Liechtenstein’s little national museum. It was interesting to learn all about how it developed over time, and about its links with Switzerland. There was also an exhibit on Liechtenstein’s culture, and its role as a haven for businesses (including Swarovski). Who knew Liechtenstein’s employment rate is actually over 100% vs its population as so many cross the border each day from Switzerland to work there. Another interesting fact – Liechtenstein has no army!

Get your passport stamped

A little touristy gimmick, but a nice one none the less – make sure you get your passport stamped in the Tourist Information Centre. There’s even a throne in there if, like me, you want to be a Queen for a second or two.

Stroll the old town

Liechtenstein’s charming old town is small but beautiful. It has a lovely church, lots of quaint houses and cobbled streets to explore. It’s also home to quite a few nice restaurants, bars and cafes so we spent an hour or so relaxing in the sunshine with cake and ice-cream before heading back to Zürich.

We really enjoyed our little trip to Liechtenstein and would recommend it to anyone visiting Zürich if you can spare the time. What did you think of this tiny little nation? Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling!

Location

Lausanne is one of the most picturesque cities in Switzerland, with a gorgeous old town and beautiful waterfront lying right on the shores of Lake Geneva. The Royal Savoy is close to the water’s edge, a short 5 minute walk down to the front.

To get to the main part of town is a quick 10 minute metro ride, and there’s a stop right by the hotel (which you will be able to use for free as they give you a travel card).

You can also walk to the train station in about 20 minutes for easy access everywhere in Switzerland, or again take the metro a short 5 minute journey.

Accommodation

We had a lovely room, the only one of the whole holiday with a bath – and it was a huge one at that – the dream! The bed was super comfy, there was a desk to sit at, and a nice sofa area to chill out in. There was daily cleaning and nightly turn down (I always love the little slippers ready for me to cosy down in the evening).

The best feature of the room though was the balcony, overlooking Ouchy park and perfect to relax and read in the sunshine on our visit as it was 26 degrees and beautifully sunny!

Food & Drink

The food and drink was delicious. We had breakfast in the hotel each day, either in the restaurant or on the terrace and there’s a great selection from the buffet or off the menu at no extra cost. I tried the poached eggs, Shakshuka, pancakes and crepes off the main menu, and ate my way round most of the buffet. The fresh fruit was really good quality, and the croissants served warm – delicious!

The hotel also has a rooftop bar, called the Sky Lounge, which serves evening meals. It’s not open every day, but again the food was delicious. We shared fondue and wine as the sunset was setting so that was pretty magical.

Amenities & Experiences

The hotel’s main asset is its spa. We’d planned to have a spa day, but unfortunately our luggage was lost meaning we had no swimwear and neither of us wanted to rock up naked. Instead we settled for relaxing alongside the pool and reading our books, which was really lovely regardless and a good recharge for the mid-section of our holiday.

The hotel also has beautiful gardens to enjoy with lots of nice little corners of tables surrounded by trees for privacy – we sat in the garden with cocktails one evening which was fun.

There is also a lounge bar, cigar bar and of course the rooftop bar I mentioned previously. In addition to that is a 24hr concierge who is able to help organise boat trips, recommend restaurants and help however you need.

So that’s it for The Royal Savoy. We loved our stay here, and whilst not on the level of an elite 5* hotel, it really was beautiful. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the middle of our 10 day trip around Switzerland, and would recommend it to anyone looking for a little piece of luxury in Lausanne. What did you think? Stay safe and happy travelling everyone!

We didn’t love Zürich, but then can you love anywhere when you’re sleep deprived, bickering, full of hay-fever and dependent on an inhaler to breathe – probably not.

The cost of things here put a dampener on it too. Dinners on average cost us £90 for 2, just for mains and non-alcoholic drinks. Even for just a decent burger in a restaurant you’re talking £30, and that trusty McDonald’s comparison – for a BigMac meal here it’s about £20! Average accommodation prices here are also £250/night (even a hostel is £150), and if you want to be anywhere near the centre of town and in a 4/5* hotel you’re talking £400+.

Away from the negatives, Zürich is clean and full of beautiful streets, churches and shops. The old town is one of the nicest I’ve ever visited and the location right on the lake is pretty special.

Would I recommend Zürich? Yes, absolutely…BUT only if you have enough money to fund it, because it will probably cost you about £300-£600/day depending on your hotel choice. That said, there’s so much to discover and to do, and here are my top 10 from my 3 days in the city.

Contents

1. Contents
2. Things to do in Zürich
   1. FIFA World Football Museum
   2. Niederdorf
   3. Lake Zürich
   4. Lindenhof Hill
   5. Old Town
   6. Grossmünster
   7. Limmatquai
   8. Landesmuseum
   9. Fraumünster
3. Have a Little Longer?
   1. Liechtenstein
   2. St Gallen
   3. Rhine Falls
   4. Rapperswil

Things to do in Zürich

FIFA World Football Museum

We really enjoyed this museum, although it wasn’t as good as the Olympics Museum in Lausanne. Understandably designed more with kids in mind, there was only one floor where the exhibits had lots of information to read and learn. That said, there were loads of cool things to see including Pele and Maradona’s shirts, overview sections of each world cup, and even the trophy itself!

Niederdorf

Lively Niederdorf is an area of the city known for its medieval streets and squares, and the Romanesque Grossmünster cathedral. It was the area our hotel was in, and it was lovely spending each evening sitting out in the streets and watching the world go by with drinks.

Lake Zürich

Zürich lies right on the edge of the lake, and it’s lovely to spend half a day out on the lake enjoying the scenic views from a boat.

Lindenhof Hill

One of my favourite spots in all of Zürich was Lindenhof. It’s the best vantage point in the city, and surrounded by beautiful buildings and picturesque streets. We grabbed a burrito from a food van and sat up there to eat which was wonderful in the sunshine.

Old Town

Zürich’s old town really surprised me. It reminded me of Germany, and looked like something straight out of a fairytale. I enjoyed exploring the cobbled streets and squares and browsing some of the little shops, though my favourite spot was the square in front of St Peter’s Church.

Grossmünster

The most famous cathedral in Zürich is the Grossmünster (‘big minster’) and it’s easy to see why. Looking majestic with its two towers along the skyline, and with incredible views out over the city – it’s a must visit when here. Even better, it dates back to the 11 and 1200s so it doesn’t come much more historic than this.

Limmatquai

Limmatquai is the promenade running alongside the river through the city. It’s lined by restaurants, shops and bars and is perfect for a stroll.

Landesmuseum

One of my favourite museums of the trip was the Landesmuseum, home to really interesting exhibits including on the history of Switzerland, how democracy was formed here, and even photography. There’s also a nice café and gift shop and we easily spent 4hrs here.

Fraumünster

Founded in 853 by King Louis the German, this church with its convent was inhabited by the female members of the aristocracy of Europe (Fraumünster translates as ‘women’s minster’).

Its most stunning treasures which mean it’s definitely worth a visit are the stained glass windows: those in the north transept are by Augusto Giacometti and the five-part cycle in the chancel are the famous works of Marc Chagall.

Have a Little Longer?

Number 10 on the list is a day trip outside of Zürich. There are plenty of options from Zürich which are all super easy by train. We had planned to do a couple but in the end only did one as hubs could barely see (by the end of the holiday his eyes were largely glued shut from allergies, and even with antihistamines, inhalers and Vicks, he was so uncomfortable. I’ve never seen his hay-fever like that so whatever is in Swiss plants, it doesn’t like him!)

Liechtenstein

Europe’s second least visited country is just a short train and bus ride away. Even better it’s covered by the Swiss Travel Pass (not that I knew that until too late and I’d paid for everything!)

St Gallen

Home to the most beautiful baroque monastery imaginable and on my list if I return given it’s only a 1hr train ride away.

Rhine Falls

The most powerful waterfall in Europe is just a short 45 minute train journey from Zürich, and can be seen in half a day

Rapperswil

A beautiful town lying on the banks of Lake Zürich, this is a perfect option to take the slow route on a boat across the lake, and then return by train

What do you think of Zürich? I really liked the city, but didn’t feel like we made the most of it given how we were feeling. Perhaps one day I’ll go back and see it in a new light beyond high prices and asthma attacks! Stay safe and happy travelling all.

(Don’t worry if you’re not an Olympics fan though, this town is still incredible with loads to see and do).

Let’s go!

Contents

1. Contents
2. Itinerary Day 1: Ouchy & Grandvaux
   1. Olympic Museum
   2. Explore Ouchy
   3. Boat trip on Lake Geneva to Lutry
   4. Vineyard lakeside walk to Grandvaux
3. Itinerary Day 2: Old town Lausanne
   1. Lausanne Cathedral
   2. Lausanne History Museum
   3. Place de la Palud
   4. Palais du Romaine
   5. Escaliers du Marché
   6. Le Barbare hot chocolate
4. Have a little Longer?
   1. Chillon Castle
   2. Montreux & Ride a Panoramic Train
   3. Nyon
   4. Geneva

Itinerary Day 1: Ouchy & Grandvaux

Olympic Museum

Obviously, I had to start my visit with the Olympic Museum. Even if you’re not an Olympics fan, it’s still a really interesting place to spend a couple of hours. It covers the birth of the Olympics, its ideals and purposes, host cities, key moments and key figures. It’s open 9am-6pm but closed on a Monday, and costs CHF20 per person, or it’s free with that trusty Swiss Travel Pass.

The Museum also lies in a lovely garden area which is well worth a stroll, and it has a nice little café in it which serves good food.

Explore Ouchy

Ouchy is the waterfront area in Lausanne, just a short walk from the Olympic Museum. We absolutely loved strolling the shoreline and taking everything in. There are plenty of nice stops for lunch or drinks and if the weather’s nice – even better.

Boat trip on Lake Geneva to Lutry

Ouchy is a perfect spot from which to get on a boat and experience the lake itself. We chose to combine it as a mode of transport to our next destination, but you could do any boat trip on the lake and get the same beautiful views every way you look.

Vineyard lakeside walk to Grandvaux

Lausanne has some of the best vineyards in the region, and the picturesque rolling fields at the lakeside are a famous symbol of the area. The most famous stretch is from Lutry to Grandvaux, so we decided to walk it. It was one of the highlights of our entire trip, they were just so beautiful and the weather was perfect for us. We finished the walk off with a wine tasting in Grandvaux as the sun went down, and then got the train back to Lausanne (it only takes 8 minutes).

Itinerary Day 2: Old town Lausanne

Lausanne Cathedral

We decided to spend the day exploring Old Town Lausanne today, and there’s no better place to start than the Cathedral. A beautiful building perched on a hill with excellent views it’s a must visit site in the city. Even better, there was a classical concert practice on when I visited so I got to listen to the orchestra.

Lausanne History Museum

Right next to the Cathedral is the Lausanne History Museum, which I really enjoyed. It covers city history – it’s formation, development and expansion over time – as well as its challenge to get a clean water supply, transport network growth etc. It was super interesting.

There was also a temporary exhibition which blew my little inner historical geek away. I hadn’t realised that post WW1 Lausanne is where the treaty was signed that effectively created modern day Turkey. Previously it had been a bigger area, known as the Ottoman Empire, but after WW1 this was defeated and collapsed. The formation of Turkey was contentious as the area of Kurdistan was split between Turkey, Iraq, Iran and Syria. The Kurds were not consulted as part of the negotiations. The negotiations also gave immunity for all human rights violations between 1914 and 1922, including the Armenian Genocide.

It goes without saying that the UK, France and Italy brokered this conference and had to agree to the split. What did they get in return for allowing this to happen and for Turkey to be formed? Well, oil rich lands that they made the ex-Ottoman empire surrender to them of course. As with most Middle East politics, Black Gold sat at the heart of it. And in my view, the Lausanne Treaty served as a pivotal international precedent for transferring populations against their will throughout the twentieth century.

Place de la Palud

This little square is the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by with lunch and a coffee (or wine of course). We had a 27 degree day and spent 2 hours taking it all in.

Palais du Romaine

This wonderful building is now home to a number of exhibits you can visit, covering archaeology, history, science and more. It’s free so we spent an hour or so browsing. It’s worth a look inside even if just for the foyer!

Escaliers du Marché

One of the most beautiful streets in Lausanne is the steep passageway of Escaliers du Marche, lined by pretty shops and covered with a beautiful wooden roof built in the 1700s.

Le Barbare hot chocolate

Along the steps you’ll find Le Barbare, a famous hot chocolate maker in the city. Finish of your day with a cup of the good stuff here. I don’t really like hot chocolate but I thought it was delicious (if a little rich)!

Have a little Longer?

If you have longer than 2 days in Lausanne, or aren’t bothered about the Olympics and vineyards of Day 1, you could also choose to visit:

Chillon Castle

Spend a day visiting Switzerland’s most beautiful castle at Chillon, set alongside the lake with the most stunning views.

Full Post: HERE

Montreux & Ride a Panoramic Train

Montreux represents the starting point for many panoramic train rides across Switzerland. We rode the Cog Railway to Rochers-de-Naye and it was truly amazing.

Full Post: HERE

Nyon

Home to the Swiss National Museum and a beautiful old town centre, Nyon makes a perfect place to spend a day.

Full Post: HERE

Geneva

Geneva is a great place for a day trip across the lake to visit the home of the UN, Red Cross and the famous Jet D’eau.

Full Post: HERE

I really loved Lausanne for its Olympic connections and as a place to unwind and explore. It was my favourite section of our Switzerland 10 day trip and I’m so glad we visited. Also as a side note, I think I’ve truly managed the art of avoiding people in my photos which is no mean feat and requires patience! What did you think? Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling!

Contents

1. Contents
2. How to get to Nyon
3. Things to do in Nyon
   1. Château de Prangins
   2. Nyon Old Town
   3. Château de Nyon
   4. Lake Museum
   5. Enjoy Lake Geneva
4. Cost of visiting Nyon

How to get to Nyon

From Geneva you can reach Nyon by train in just 15 minutes, or you can take a 1hr boat based on the CGN boat timetables. We chose to take a train to Nyon and then catch a boat back to Geneva.

Travel in Switzerland is easy. Often the most cost effective option around Switzerland is to purchase a Swiss Travel Pass, which covers all normal rail (panoramic trains and cog railways at a discount) and boat travel, plus entry in to all museums. We paid £710 for 2 of us for 8 days of travel pass, and it easily paid back for us. This also means that everything on this day trip is covered by the travel pass, other than food.

Things to do in Nyon

Château de Prangins

Château de Prangins is a castle which was built in the 1700s by a Paris banker and Voltaire even resided here for a while. Prior to that it had been a seat of power for the Dukes of Savoy, so has always been an important location. Inside the building today is a branch of the Swiss National Museum that covers a number of exhibits including on what it means to be Swiss, the castle in the 1800s and the history of Chintz and its link to slavery.

The castle also has a stunning garden, which we enjoyed sitting in and a lovely terrace bar and café which serves lunch too.

Nyon Old Town

The old town of Nyon is great to explore on foot with lots of pretty buildings to see, all overlooked by the castle on the hill. Also be sure to check out the small Roman ruins and steep but picturesque streets.

Château de Nyon

The castle was originally a fortified house in the 1100s, and in 1293 the counts of Savoy took it over. In 1536, as the Reformation took hold, the Bernese chased the House of Savoy out of Nyon and the town of Nyon purhcased the castle in 1804. It subsequently housed the courts, the meetings of the town council, the prisons and, after 1888, the town museum. The castle was last entirely renovated between 1999 and 2006, and now includes a number of exhibits on its history plus the prison wing still in tact.

Lake Museum

The Lake Geneva museum is worth a little mooch if you have the travel pass, but not really if you need to pay. It’s quite small and all in French but there’s a few interesting things to see including old ships and fishing stats, plus a mini aquarium.

Enjoy Lake Geneva

As with any lake side town, enjoying the lake itself is a must. We walked along the shore taking in the stunning views, and bought some ice-cream (£30 for 2 icecreams) at a small stand given it was so hot.

Cost of visiting Nyon

I feel I always have to mention cost when it comes to Switzerland. If you have the Swiss travel pass then all of this day will be covered, other than the food you eat. If you don’t have the travel pass, it will cost you roughly £40pp to travel to Nyon and enter the museums listed.

Food prices are what make everything in Switzerland extra expensive. Food in Nyon is no different and reflective of the general prices we found across Switzerland. You can of course save money by eating at a supermarket, but most sit down restaurants are at least £30-40pp.

We ate at the restaurant at Château de Prangins which unfortunately (for a small burger and a bowl of tortellini plus tap water) cost us £68, but was delicious at least. On top of our ice-cream this meant we spent £100 just on food and we hadn’t even had dinner yet – extortionate Switzerland at its best again.

Thanks so much for reading – what did you think of the little trip to Nyon? We found it to be a lovely little place and were really glad to have spent a day here. Stay safe and happy travelling!

Contents

1. Contents
2. How to get to Château Chillon
3. History of the castle
4. Cost and other useful visitor information

How to get to Château Chillon

Getting to Chillon is easy as it’s close to two train stations. The closest is Veytaux Chillon, where direct trains from Lausanne and Montreux arrive. From Lausanne it takes around 30 minutes and from Montreux around 10 minutes.

If you’re a little further away, you can get the train in to Montreux. It is 1hr from Geneva or 1hr30 from Bern to Montreux. To come from Zurich would take over 2 hours so I don’t recommend doing it as a day trip from there unless you are willing to spend half your day on a train.

From Montreux you can either change to Veytaux Chillon, or walk to the castle along the lakeside, taking about 35 mintues. If you get off at Veytaux Chillon it’s a 5 minute walk to the castle.

History of the castle

Chillon is located like no other castle I’ve visited, right on a rock jutting out in to Lake Geneva, like a magical fairytale castle. It began life as a Roman outpost due to its strategic position on a road through the Alpine passes.

The oldest parts of the castle date back to around 1005, and by 1150 records show the castle was owned by the Count of Savoy, for whom it became a summer home as he kept his fleet of ships on Lake Geneva. The House of Savoy was a French dynasty, effectively meaning Chillon was under French (albeit France wasn’t a country at the time) control.

During the 1500s, the Dukes of Savoy used the castle to house prisoners from the Wars of Religion (the conflict between Catholics and Protestants I have previously mentioned in my Switzerland posts). The most famous prisoner was Francois de Bonivard, a monk whose chain and rut are still visible today in the prison. He was made famous by the Poet Lord Byron, who wrote a poem called The Prisoner of Chillon based on Bonivard.

In 1536, the castle was captured by the armies of Geneva and Bern and all prisoners were released. The castle therefore came under Swiss (again, it wasn’t Switzerland at the time) control, albeit in 1798 the French speaking Swiss Canton of Vaud drove out the German speaking Bernese authorities. So, it sorts of ended up a mish mash of Swiss and French anyway, which feels right.

As an aside, I still find it crazy that today Switzerland as a country has 3 national languages – German, French and Italian. It’s made up of 22 Cantons (like US states, or UK counties) and each has a main language. Whilst the majority of Cantons have German as their official language, a few (including Geneva and Vaud, where Chillon is situated) have French and one (Ticino) has Italian. Roughly 60% of Swiss people speak German as a first language, 20% French, 10% Italian and 10% other.

I speak fluent German but only basic French. I was surprised that I was actually able to get around more easily in the French speaking Cantons with English than I was German! I wonder how the national sports teams etc communicate, it’s such a unique situation.

Cost and other useful visitor information

Visiting the castle is free if you have the Swiss Travel Pass. If you don’t, entry is 13.50CHF. You can book tickets online up to 3 months in advance, but can also purchase on the door.

Guided tours are also an option, and they are available in French, English, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, Russian, Japanese and Chinese (Cantonese or Mandarin), but must be booked at least two days in advance. You can also hire an Audio Guide for 6CHF, or just read the 42 boards as you follow the route round (as we did) for free.

Opening times are dependent on the time of year, though the only days the castle is closed completely are Christmas and New Year’s Day:

• November to March: 10 am to 5 pm (last admission at 4 pm)
• April, May, September & October: 9 am to 6 pm (last admission at 5 pm)
• June to August: 9 am to 7 pm (last admission at 6 pm)

What did you think of Chillon castle? I absolutely loved it and would recommend it to anyone visiting Switzerland. It was one of my favourite things on our trip, and I think is now officially my second favourite castle of all time! That’s high praise indeed. Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling everyone.

An Introduction to Switzerland’s Panoramic Trains

Everywhere in Switzerland is pretty scenic. Even getting the normal trains can give pretty epic countryside and lake views and the ones around Lake Geneva were particularly special.

But a Panormaic Train is next level. There are a number of Panoramic train routes across Switzerland:

• The Glacier Express (Zermatt to St. Moritz)
• Bernina Express (Chur/St. Moritz to Tirano)
• Gotthard Panorama Express (Lucerne to Ticino)
• MOB Golden Pass (Montreux to Interlaken/Lucerne), (Montreux to Rochers-de-Naye)

With the Glacier Express being probably the most famous, I’d had my heart set on it but the itinerary just couldn’t make it work as we’d be nowhere near the start/end point. So instead, given we were only going to be staying around 15 minutes from Montreux in Lausanne, we settled on the MOB Golden Pass Line.

Riding a Swiss Panoramic train

We settled on the Montreux to Rochers-de-Naye route for 2 reasons: 1) It was shorter so we could go there and back in a day, and 2) we wanted to hike so this gave us the ability to get off a stop from the top and hike the remaining 2hrs to the summit (as opposed to 7hrs from ‘ground level’). Please note, you don’t have to hike and could just stay on the train.

A small incident involving falling down some steps the weekend before I was due to travel meant I was in significant pain and thinking about stopping the hike. BUT I am stubborn and it was really important to me to hike in Switzerland, so I dosed up on pain killers and boarded the train.

The train cruised along the Lake for around 15 minutes, before starting its ascent. We passed through rolling hills, incredible views back down to Lake Geneva and then started seeing mountain peaks pass by the window. I didn’t know which way to look, whether to have my camera out or just take it all in. It was truly incredible.

After an hour of ascent snow capped mountains started coming in to view and it was time to get off the train and start our hike from the Jaman train stop. The sun had been shining at the bottom of the mountains, but wow was it cold up here and I had to put 2 jumpers on to stay warm.

We walked the 2 hours up from Jaman to Rochers-de-Naye peak. It was epic. I’ve never done a more beautiful hike and every second of pain was worth it. My husband hates heights but is fine as long as he’s not too close to the edge – this hike forced him to be right up against the cliff side scrambling in places so he really did amazingly not to quit. We reached the summit pretty euphoric. What a day to be alive.

At the top there is a restaurant and toilets so after a drink and sit down, we got the next train back down to Montreux, agreeing it was one of the best experiences of our lives (even though painful/terrifying).

The Details of Montreux to Rochers-de-Naye

• The train departs from Montreux station but you will need to buy tickets from the MOB Golden pass office near Platform 1, not the main ticket boxes in the station.
• The journey takes just over 1hr to reach Rochers-de-Naye, leaving every hour from 8.17am until 3.17pm
• Trains departing Rochers-de-Naye back to Montreux leave every hour from 9.11am until 4.11pm
• A return ticket costs 60CHF per person, with a 50% discount if you have the Swiss Travel Pass (well worth it)
• Take warm clothes, it’s cold at the top if you do want to get off and explore the hiking routes

So, what did you think of the Swiss Panoramic train experience? It was one of my top travel experiences ever and next time I visit this wonderful country I’ll definitely be doing another of the routes.

This amazing day formed part of my 10 day Switzerland trip which you can read more about via these posts if you are researching a trip:

• Geneva
• Nyon
• Lausanne – the base from which we did this train ride
• Castle Chillon
• Zürich

Stay safe and happy travelling all!

My bag was deemed lost rather than delayed, meaning for a 10 day trip I needed to buy 10 days of clothes. In Switzerland. The cheapest t-shirt I could find was about £30. So, to replace toiletries and clothes cost me about £500, which BA limited to £100 of refund. I was so furious as that was LESS than the differential in ticket price I paid to have checked baggage. A joke.

So my already expensive trip was costing me £1,400 more than planned before I even started it. Thanks to British Airways who, after now losing my bags and delaying every flight I’ve been on in 2023, will no longer be my airline of choice. I’d rather fly Ryanair. Which tells you how bad they are.

So, to Geneva. With a bitter taste in my mouth but an acknowledgement that much worse things have happened in the world than a lost suitcase, I resolved to enjoy it anyway. The city is clean and beautiful, the lake is breathtaking and the people polite and friendly. Its downside…it’s extortionate. I can’t write a blog post about it without acknowledging that. Be prepared to pay £30 for a main course in any sit down restaurant, and even Starbucks paninis and a drink cost us a combined £45 for 2. I was finished off with two white Magnums for a grand total of £31. Ludicrous.

Can you visit Geneva on a budget? Yes, but not easily, and not with meals out. If you’re on a budget, I’d pick somewhere else and if you are visiting, be prepared to pay high prices throughout. If you do visit though, it is a beautiful city with plenty worth seeing so let’s go!

Contents

1. Contents
2. Lake Geneva walks (Bains des Pâquis)
3. Geneva Old Town
4. United Nations
5. Flower Clock and Jardin Anglais
6. Red Cross and Crescent Museum
7. Eat Fondue
8. Botanical Gardens
9. Jet D’eau
10. CGN Lake Cruises
11. Reformation Wall and Bastions Park
12. Geneva St Peter’s Cathedral and International Museum of the Reformation
13. Day Trips Galore
    1. Nyon
    2. Lausanne
    3. Chamonix and Mont Blanc
    4. Montreux, Vevey and Castle Chillon
    5. Annecy

Lake Geneva walks (Bains des Pâquis)

Let’s start with the lake itself, which is truly beautiful. Walking alongside the lake between the Botanical Gardens and Bains des Paquis through the parks and promenades is one of the most picturesque things to do in Geneva. With stunning views everywhere it was one of the best things I did in the city. And thankfully it’s also totally free.

Geneva Old Town

Geneva old town is the largest historical area in Switzerland and it really is beautiful. Strolling around, having a coffee and browsing the shops is a perfect way to spend a morning.

United Nations

Geneva is most famous for being home to the United Nations. There are a number of tours offered around the building (we chose the third one being the history geeks that we are).

• Palais des Nations visit: Focused on the UN and its operations
• The history of the Palais des Nations: art and architecture oriented, this guided tour allows you to discover the history of the building itself
• UN History: In addition to visiting the Palais des Nations, you will also visit the League of Nations Museum, which exhibits the history of the UN through archival documents.
• Guided tour of the Ariana Park: Find out more about the history and management of the park surrounding the Palais des Nations.

Flower Clock and Jardin Anglais

Jardin Anglais, The English Garden, is a small but beautiful park area right alongside Lake Geneva. It’s also home to the ‘flower clock’, a famous site in Geneva which pays tribute to the country’s rich watch making history.

Red Cross and Crescent Museum

A really interesting museum to visit in Geneva is the Red Cross and Crescent Museum, telling the story of the Red Cross’ work across the globe. With 3 core themes – 1) Supporting during conflicts, 2) Protecting human rights and 3) Helping to prevent and following natural disasters – you can learn about the organisation’s work since its formation in 1863 in Geneva.

Eat Fondue

Fondue is Switzerland’s most famous dish – a communal pot of melted cheese and wine which you dip bread and normally have with wine. It’s a must try if you’re in Geneva as there are many great fondue restaurants. We chose Auberge de Savièse, and it was delicious.

Botanical Gardens

I love a good botanical garden and Geneva is no different. With a selection of lovely greenhouses and lots of garden to explore, it’s an easy way to spend a few hours. We actually ended up staying here for 4 hours as we found a nice seating area, ordered some drinks and sat reading our books – lovely!

Jet D’eau

Another symbol of Geneva is the Jet D’eau, a massive water fountain out on a pier past the Jardin Anglais. Built in the 1950s, it is 140m high, and every second, more than 500 litres of water are expelled at a speed of 200 km/h. In every moment, 7 tons of water form this magnificent water jet!

CGN Lake Cruises

Taking to the lake itself is a must do when in Geneva, and CGN are the main and best provider of boat transports on the Lake. All boat travel is included in the Swiss Travel Pass (along with rail travel and museums) which make getting around the lake easy.

There are a few options for boat travel. You could take a boat trip in and of itself, such as lunch on the lake (we had this booked, but it was cancelled due to a technical issue on the boat). Alternatively you could enjoy a boat cruise between destinations – leisurely taking a boat in one direction and a speedy train in the other. Most of the destinations mentioned in (12) below can be reached by CGN boats.

Reformation Wall and Bastions Park

Switzerland was a hub for the reformation in Europe. The reformation was when Protestantism became prominent and many converted from Catholicism, leading to huge religious persecution on both sides. Switzerland became a safe haven for the Huguenots (French protestants fleeing persecution in France) and was home to John Calvin, one of the most renowned reformers of all time.

Within Bastions Park is a huge wall paying tribute to key figures in the Reformation. Oliver Cromwell is prominent (he is from Ely, a city 30 minutes from where I live and his statue is prominent in my town square), as are William Farel and John Knox. I quite liked it.

Geneva St Peter’s Cathedral and International Museum of the Reformation

If you have never seen a Protestant church, you may be surprised once inside at how simple the interior is. This was the basis of the Reformation, to remove the Catholic icons and grandeur, and according to Calvinist spiritual codes, keep the interior simple.

Aside from seeing the Cathedral itself, you can also climb the 157 steps up the tower, giving panoramic views out over Geneva. Also next door you can visit the Reformation Museum which tells the story of the history of the Protestant faith in more detail.

Day Trips Galore

Geneva is situated perfectly for a number of incredible day trips across Switzerland and France, given it lies right on the border. We did a few of these, though not all as day trips from Geneva as we later stayed in Lausanne, but I’ve included a good list below to suit your interests:

Nyon

A 14 minute train ride for the Swiss National Museum, beautiful old castles, and a lovely lake front town.

Lausanne

A 45 minute train ride to visit the Olympic Museum, stunning old town, Ouchy waterfront.

Chamonix and Mont Blanc

It’s just a 1hr drive to Chamonix and Mont Blanc, where you can mountain train to the Glacier, Cable Car ride over the Chamonix Valley or spend the day hiking if you really want an adventure.

Montreux, Vevey and Castle Chillon

Just a 1hr 15 min train journey round the lake takes you to the picturesque town of Montreux, where you can take lakeside walks amongst vineyards, go wine tasting, or even visit Switzerland’s most famous and beautiful castle.

Annecy

Taking a 1hr30 train ride will reward you with one of the most beautiful villages in France.

So what are your thoughts of Geneva? Would you like to visit? I hope you’ve enjoyed the tour – stay safe and happy travelling!