To visit the area, you could travel by car, however we chose to explore by a combination of bike and boat. From Vienna we took the train to Krems and then cycled along the river to Dürnstein, through the countryside stopping at wineries along the way. We also took a boat trip to visit Melk Abbey and admire Aggstein castle.

Contents

1. Contents
2. Wachau Valley Itinerary Day 1
   1. Start the day with a idyllic cycle ride along the Danube
   2. Explore historic Dürnstein
   3. Wine tasting at Domäne Wachau
   4. Pedal on to Weißenkirchen
3. Wachau Valley Itinerary Day 2
   1. Visit Aggstein Castle
   2. Danube cruise including Schloss Schönbühel
   3. Melk Abbey

Wachau Valley Itinerary Day 1

Start the day with a idyllic cycle ride along the Danube

Cycling along the Danube is a really special experience. We did this by taking a train from Vienna to Krems, and then cycled through the Austrian countryside. You could do this as an organised tour, or just hire your own bikes. Wachau bikes are great as they can drop the bikes off and collect from your accommodation in the Wachau region and you can rent for a day, a few days or a week – whatever suits your visit.

We chose to start in Krems, taking in the beautiful towns and countryside along the way, until we reached Dürnstein, which takes around 30 minutes.

Explore historic Dürnstein

Dürnstein is quite popular with tourists given its scenic spot on the Danube and famous castle. Getting to the castle is a steep climb, but it is worth it to visit the place where Leopold V, Duke of Austria, held Richard the Lionheart captive in 1192 following their dispute during the third crusade. It was also amusing to see reference to Robin Hood around Dürnstein!

Wine tasting at Domäne Wachau

Cycle the short way to Domäne Wachau – an amazing spot for some local wine tasting (what could go wrong, drinking wine before getting back on a bike!). Tasting takes place at local ‘Heurigen’ which are family owned farms only allowed to open from time to time because the family are farmers and the sale of alcohol is not the main business. Cartwheels or ship wheels are displayed outside when the heurigen open for wine tasting.

We learnt that the Wachau region specialises in dry white wines which are classified in three categories according to alcohol level. (i) Steinfeder – light and sparkling with an alcohol content not exceeding 11%. (ii) Federspiel – made with riper grapes and having an alcohol content of 11-12.5%. (iii) Smaragd – contains at least 12.5% alcohol. This category is sought after and critically acclaimed with the potential to age for over 20 years.

Wine tasting time

Pedal on to Weißenkirchen

After a further 30 minutes of pedalling along the picturesque Danube, you will arrive at Weißenkirchen. Here there is a lovely church, a museum on the Wachau region…and of course, plenty more wine tasting options. It’s also a great spot for dinner before starting the pedal on to Spitz to finish day 1.

Wachau Valley Itinerary Day 2

Visit Aggstein Castle

From Spitz, we got up early and cycled 30 minutes to the famous Aggstein Castle. This ruined castle sits right on the banks of the Danube, and enables you to step back in to Medieval times by exploring the remaining walls, rooms and passages. It’s also well worth exploring some of the hiking trails around the castle, as the views they provide across the ruins and the Danube are spectacular.

Danube cruise including Schloss Schönbühel

We then chose to head back to Spitz, and take a Danube cruise down to Melk. The cruise takes around 1-1.5hours and provides lovely views of quaint towns along the river. There are also multiple castles right on the river front, including Schloss Schönbühel, which was built in the 12th century. Unfortunately it is privately owned so visitors are not allowed, with only the Monastery on site being accessible.

Melk Abbey

Disembarking the river cruise to the final stop of the day – Melk Abbey is a Benedictine abbey sitting high above the town of Melk. The abbey dates all the way back to 1089, though today’s version was built in the 1700s. Luckily it has managed to escape dissolution, the Napoleonic Wars and the World Wars, to remain a special and beautiful place.

Inside the abbey (left), the abbey gardens (top right) and view down to Melk from the abbey (bottom right)

Once finished at the Abbey, relax on the cruise back to Spitz and enjoy a nice dinner and well earned rest, after a busy and active 2 days exploring the very special Wachau Valley.

Thank you for reading and I hope you found this post interesting and helpful if you’re planning on visiting Austria one day. Stay safe and happy travelling!

Here are 5 highlights to see in a weekend visiting this amazing city.

1. Schloss Schönbrunn

In the 17th Century Schloss Schonbrunn was the Habsburgs’ summer palace (the Habsburgs are the former rulers of Austria), and the famous family lived here until 1918. We travelled there by underground and it’s well worth the effort as it is magnificent, and we easily spent half a day here.

The palace itself is gorgeous inside, including The Blue Chinese Salon room which is where the negotiations were held that culminated in the renunciation by Karl I as the last emperor of Austria and the proclamation of the Republic of Austria (ending 600 years of Habsburg rule). Also inside is The Grand Gallery, which is where President Kennedy and Soviet Premier Kruschev met to diffuse the Cuban Missile crisis (the only room in the history of ancient houses my Dad has been interested in!). Also at the palace are stunning gardens, as well as a Palm House and a maze. There’s even a zoo (Tiergarten Zoo) on the site.

2. St Stephen’s cathedral

The ancient cathedral is a symbol of Vienna, its tower dominating the skyline of the city, and its colourful roof (rebuilt following extensive WWII bombing) one of the main attractions of visiting – providing panoramic views out over the city.

Also within the cathedral is a treasury, as well as catacombs which contain the coffins of the early Habsburg Emperors and urns containing the entrails of later Hapsburgs (!). Also in the catacombs you can see a mass grave pit of 18th century plague victims from the last plague outbreak in 1735. Out of a population of 30,000, 10,000 died.

Views of the cathedral roof

3. Schloss Belvedere

Art isn’t really my thing, but when in Vienna it’s something that must be done. Schloss Belvedere is now an art gallery, home to many famous artworks including Klimt’s ‘The Kiss’ which we were lucky enough to see all to ourselves as we arrived early (again it is a short underground trip away but not too far). The painting is stunning and much larger than expected. For someone who is no art aficionado, it was really interesting to visit (and I enjoyed it!)

4. Sachertorte at the Hotel Sacher

Sachertorte is an Austrian institution – and if you like chocolate, you won’t want to miss trying a slice. This rich mix of chocolate sponge cake, apricot jam, and dark chocolate icing was invented in Vienna. You can purchase Sachertorte all over Vienna, but the original (and most luxurious) is at Hotel Sacher itself, which still prepares the sweet treat to the original recipe.

5. The Hofburg

Until 1918 the extensive palatial complex at the heart of Vienna was the political centre of the monarchy. Today it fulfils the same role for the democratic Republic of Austria. A visit to the palace today includes the Imperial Apartments (where the Emperor and his wife resided in opulent surroundings), a tour of the silver collection (giving an insight in to how courtly dining once operated) and the Sisi Museum (a museum about the Empress Elisabeth and her incredible life). Again we happily spent half a day here, rounding off our weekend in the capital.

Vienna is full of beautiful buildings and interesting sites; there are museums around every corner and you could easily spend a week exploring this beautiful city. Unfortunately we only had a weekend, but it was still long enough to see the main sites! Just wandering around is a lovely experience with the coffee shop culture and lots of delicious eateries. Have you ever been to Vienna? What did you think of it?

Some final shots of the city – Parliament Bulding (top left), Spanish riding school (top right), Rathaus (bottom left), Mozart statue (bottom right)

Stay safe and happy travelling!

Lying almost on the border with Germany, Salzburg boasts baroque architecture nestled against a backdrop of the northern Alps. It really is a city straight out of a storybook, and we absolutely loved visiting. Here are my top 10 things to do in the city.

1. 1. Hohensalzburg Fortress
2. 2. The Old Town
3. 3. Mirabell Palace and Gardens
4. 4. Hotel Sacher
5. 5. Street Parties
6. 6. Hallein Salt Mine
7. 7. Eagle’s Nest
8. 8. The Cathedral
9. 9. The Mönchsberg
10. 10. Kapuzinerberg

1. Hohensalzburg Fortress

The biggest fully preserved castle in central Europe sits atop Festungsberg, the hill that overlooks Salzburg old town, offering sweeping views over the rooftops of the city. The Fortress was built initially in 1077, and developed in the 1500s to what we see now. At the castle, there are a number of museums including the Fortress Museum which tells the story of the castle and its occupants. Interestingly it has never been captured by foreign troops! You can walk up to the Fortress, or catch the Funicular up if you’d rather.

2. The Old Town

Salzburg old town is full of baroque architecture. It’s a small city which is easily walkable on foot. There are lots of quaint alleyways to explore, ornate shop signs and streets opening up to pretty squares.

3. Mirabell Palace and Gardens

This beautiful palace is where The Sound of Music was filmed – and is great for a visit even if you’ve never seen the film. With pretty gardens, baroque architecture and a marble ballroom, exploring the palace is a must.

4. Hotel Sacher

Hotel Sacher is Salzburg’s grandest hotel, and if you can stay there then I really recommend it. Breakfast is really something – with champagne and slices of Sacher Torte (the famous Austrian chocolate cake)!

If your budget doesn’t stretch to a stay at the hotel, then it sits right on the riverfront and is a great place to stop for a coffee slice of Sacher Torte in Cafe Sacher, or even hit the Sacher Bar for a drink.

5. Street Parties

In Salzburg, each district has its own street party one weekend each year. During our visit there was a street party in the newer part of the city. Each shop decorated their front with something representative of what it sells – we saw everything from flowers to towels to buckets and even suitcases hanging in to the streets! There were deck chairs out, live bands in the street and so much fun!

6. Hallein Salt Mine

A great half day trip from Salzburg is to visit the Hallein salt mine. You can reach the mine in around 20 minutes by car, or you can make a day of it by cycling from Salzburg to Hallein along the river Salzach which takes about an hour each way.

At the salt mine, you put on special clothing (resembling some sort of hazmat suit) and go deep under ground. The most fun part is that you get to slide in to the mines – it’s pretty fast and is a fun experience. Uniquely, the tour of the mines also enables you to visit an underground lake and cross the border in to Germany whilst underground!

Salt has been mined here since Celtic times, and also in the town of Hallein you can visit the Celtic Museum to learn more. We found it a really informative trip.

Views along the river and at the top of the slide!

7. Eagle’s Nest

Full Post: HERE

Eagle’s Nest is the site of Hitler’s mountain retreat, just across the German border. A visit to this amazing place is a must if you’re in Salzburg for more than a couple of days, and it requires a full day of your time to make the most of it.

8. The Cathedral

The historic cathedral in Salzburg was initially built in the 1100s, still uses bells over 400 years old, and is also home to the font where Mozart was baptised! The view below is out to the south facade across the rooftops.

9. The Mönchsberg

The Mönchsberg is a hill which rises skyward in the middle of Salzburg, giving beautiful views out over the city. It’s named after the monks of nearby St Peter’s Benedictine Abbey and is now also home to the Museum der Moderne and a terrace restaurant to enjoy the views. Walls and fortifications have been here since the 13th century, protecting the boundaries of the original city settlement.

10. Kapuzinerberg

Just outside of the centre of the city, across the river from The Mönchsberg, is another hill which deserves a climb! The Kapuzinerberg is around 600m high, and is home to dense forest, multiple churches and even an Abbey, alongside the multiple hiking paths. At the top is the Franziskischlössl which has sheer walls facing across to Bavaria which were constructed as a strong defence, but is now a beautiful seasonal lunch spot.

Thank you for reading. Have you ever been to Salzburg? I would love to be able to go back one day – the area of South Germany and West Austria is one of my favourites in the whole world, and once travel is open up again it will be one of the first places I go. Stay safe and happy travelling.

1. Reasons to visit Eagle’s Nest
   1. It’s a piece of history
   2. It’s beautiful
2. When to visit Eagle’s Nest?
3. How to get to Eagle’s Nest
   1. Option 1. Stay in Obersalzberg
   2. Option 2. Stay in Salzburg
   3. Option 3. Visit from Munich
4. What to see and do at Eagle’s Nest
   1. Visit Eagle’s Nest Restaurant
   2. Explore the National Park
   3. Visit the Documentation Centre
5. Other tips for visiting

Reasons to visit Eagle’s Nest

It’s a piece of history

Quite simply, it’s a piece of fascinating history and you get to walk in the footsteps of some of the most notorious people ever known. The building that remains at Eagle’s Nest was built as a social venue for senior Nazi Party members. It was actually built as a tearoom of all things. What few realise is that Hitler’s home (the Berghof) and southern headquarters – his second seat of power – were located on Obersalzberg, at the foot of the Eagle’s Nest mountain. The Berghof no longer stands so you can’t visit it, but the whole area is fascinating to understand and explore.

It’s beautiful

Even if you’re not that interested in retracing the steps of long dead Dictators, the mountainous region is so beautiful that anyone interested in scenery and views should still visit anyway. There are lots of well signed walking trails from the top, and exploring them is a joy – well worth a day of your time.

When to visit Eagle’s Nest?

Eagle’s Nest is only open mid May to late October, though it all depends on the weather. As soon as it gets snowy and slippery, the mountain can be extremely dangerous. In fact, to access the site it’s just a 4 metre wide road, with multiple tunnels and hairpin bends (the public are not allowed to drive up to the site, but more on that later), and 12 people died constructing it!

My advice would be to visit in the shoulder period (so mid May to early June and late September and October) to avoid the crazy crowds that summer brings. Plus if it’s too hot it’s not that pleasant to go hiking.

How to get to Eagle’s Nest

Option 1. Stay in Obersalzberg

Staying in the town of Obersalzberg at the base of the mountain means a really easy visit to the site. From here, you can catch the bus at the foot of Obersalzberg right to the top of the mountain. The public cannot drive to the top, you have to catch the bus or walk up a very steep incline (not recommended unless you are very fit and have plenty of time). You then reach the final part of the ascent which is via the original cylindrical brass lift accessed through a tunnel. Hitler hated using the lift as it was claustrophobic and I can see why – it really wasn’t an enjoyable experience.

Option 2. Stay in Salzburg

Salzburg is the nearest major city, but actually lies in a different country to the Eagle’s Nest – Austria. It’s a beautiful city and you can check out my blog post on it (coming next week). You can get from Salzburg to Obersalzberg via direct bus in about 1hr, or drive in about 35 minutes. From there, you just follow the route above once in Obersalzberg.

Option 3. Visit from Munich

Munich is the largest German city nearby, about 100 miles West of the Eagle’s Nest. There are no direct connections by train from Munich to the Eagle’s Nest, so you have to take a train to Berchtesgaden (transferring at Freilassing), then a short bus/taxi ride to Eagle’s Nest parking lot, and then take the bus ride up the mountain, as mentioned above. It’s a bit of a faff and in total takes around 3 hours, which is why I recommend one of the first two options.

The alternative to visit from Munich is to join a guided tour. That way you are driven straight to the base of the mountain in just under 2 hours and have more time at the site.

What to see and do at Eagle’s Nest

Once at the site, there are a number of amazing things to do:

Visit Eagle’s Nest Restaurant

Obviously the highlight – The Eagle’s Nest that remains is effectively now a restaurant with a scenic terrace just below the summit of a mountain. There are a few plaques, some information and even a fireplace gifted from Mussolini on show, but you’re mainly there for the magnificent views, combined with the horrible memories of an evil Dictator, to enjoy a unique experience.

Explore the National Park

The Eagle’s Nest sits within an incredible National Park, with stunning views. It’s here that Hitler (then a wannabe maniac) was inspired in his childhood, and his media propaganda machine built a lot of his image based on this version of him in the mountains (strong, outdoorsy, connected to nature etc etc). The truth is he actually hated the spot because of the changeable weather and being scared of heights.

Now from The Eagle’s Nest viewpoint you can follow a number of walks around the park, and I really recommend taking the time to do so.

Visit the Documentation Centre

At the foot of the mountain in Obersalzberg lies the documentation centre – built on the site of the Berghof (Hitler’s summer house). The house itself was destroyed by the Allied Troops at the end of the war. Now a museum explaining the history of the place and Hitler’s time there, the boards are in German, but you can get an English audio guide which is well worth it.

From the Documentation Centre, you can also explore underground in to the vast bunker system. Construction began in 1943 after the Battle of Stalingrad, and the bunkers contained meeting rooms, offices and archives – plus of course a plush set of living quarters for Hitler. You can’t help but boggle at the meglomania gone mad!

Other tips for visiting

• Wear comfortable shoes as you really don’t want to miss out on the walks
• Pre COVID no reservations were required, but arrive early as the queues do get busy
• If you have a dog, Eagle’s Nest is dog friendly so that’s fine
• Plan to spend a full day there – it really is worth it!

And that completes my guide to visiting Eagle’s Nest. Have you ever visited? Would you like to go? Let me know in the comments below. And if you enjoyed this post, you might enjoy some of my other Germany posts:

• Cologne – for baroque architecture and beautiful river views.
• The Drachenfels – for beautiful castles and scenic hikes.
• Nuremberg – for Nazi history, amazing sausages and medieval castles
• Berlin – for amazing museums, an Olympic stadium, and stacks of history
• Munich – for beer cellars, palaces and Oktoberfest.

Stay safe and happy travelling!